Figuring out where to eat in Paris can mean very different things depending on the moment. You may want a good bakery near your hotel for breakfast, an inexpensive café close to the attraction you're visiting, a restaurant for an early dinner before a concert, or simply a memorable neighborhood place that hasn't become a social-media sensation.
Then there are the practical questions. How far ahead do you need to make restaurant reservations? Will menus be available in English? Where can you eat late at night? And what if you need to find restaurants or bakeries that accommodate specific dietary or health requirements?
In the Sunday edition of my free Paris Discoveries Newsletter, I answer reader questions about Paris travel, and food and dining are frequent topics.
This article, part of the Paris Discoveries Q&A Archive, brings together those real reader questions and my answers based on my own experiences eating in cafés, bakeries, bistros, brasseries, and restaurants throughout Paris.
You'll find local recommendations along with practical dining tips. I've lightly edited, expanded, and updated my original answers, and added photos and related resources where useful.
Where to Find Breakfast near the Panthéon in the Latin Quarter
Sharon's Question:
We will be staying the Hotel Residence Henri IV in the Latin Quarter (5th Arrondissement).
Do you have any favorite boulangeries or favorite breakfast spots close to our hotel?
Susan's Recommendations:
Yes, I have several wonderful places to recommend in this quiet corner of the Latin Quarter (the area to the east of the Pantheon between Boulevard Saint Germain, Rue Monge, and Place de l'Estrapade), because I stay in this neighborhood fairly frequently, including about 10 days during my visit last March.
My favorites include:
Boulangerie Moderne (16 Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques near Place de l'Estrapade) - Although their croissants and other breakfast pastries are quite good, their fancier patisseries such as eclairs, flan, and fruit tarts are even better. They also offer tasty sandwiches and excellent salad - my favorite is the French lentil salad with bits of ham and something crispy such as radishes when they're in season. While you're inside, enjoy the lovely Art Nouveau signs and painted ceiling.
Where to eat nearby:
When the limited seating in front of the bakery fills up, walk across the street to Place de l'Estrapade and claim a park bench.
La Maison d'Isabelle (47 Boul' Saint-Germain, across from the Maubert-Mutualité metro station) - You'll almost always see a long line of customers waiting outside this small bakery, known for its crispy, highly-lacquered butter croissants and other mouth-watering pastries - the pain au chocolat are also amazing, and their tarte au citron (lemon tart) is one of the city's best. Thankfully the line moves quickly. Although all the standard lunch selections - soups, salads, sandwiches - are quite good, the quiche is usually outstanding.
Where to eat nearby:
This bakery has no onsite seating because of the metro station escalator outside their door, so take your treats over to Square Paul Langevin where finding a free bench is usually fairly easy.
Le Petit Café (6 Rue Descartes) - This neighborhood fixture opens at 9am and offers a couple of simple choices for breakfast: a croissant or tartine (bread, butter, jam), juice, and tea or coffee or hot chocolate, with the option of adding an egg and bacon for a few more euros. Lunch and dinner menus include casual Paris bistro classics made in house such as steak-frites, duck confit, roast chicken (my favorite here), and burgers.
Bonus: The cafe stays open until 2am - always good to keep in mind if you somehow miss dinner or arrive on a late flight.
The Coffee (77 Rue Cardinal Lemoine) - This is my favorite place at the moment for good coffee in this area - farther away from your hotel than the other places I've mentioned, but in my caffeine-loving opinion, worth the walk. Although it does offer cupcakes and cookies, the focus is on the coffee and tea drinks. It features a Japan-inspired theme, and is part of a Brazil-based franchise. Unfortunately, limited seating means you may need to take your beverage to go.
Where to sip your coffee near:
Although Place de la Contrescarpe is nearby, seating options there are always scarce. Arènes de Lutece, not much more than a block away, offers much better choices.
Where to Find Breakfast near Boulevard Saint-Michel & the Panthéon
Carlos's Question:
I will be hosted at Salvia Hotel during first days of October. Any good places nearby to have breakfast?
Susan's Recommendations:
Hi Carlos, Le Petit Cafe, which I mentioned to Sharon in the above message, is also just a few blocks from the Hotel Salvia and a good choice for breakfast.
Also, Pret a Manger (49 Boulevard Saint-Michel) opens at 7am weekdays and 8am on the weekends and is around the corner from your hotel. They're a British chain, and although the ones I've been to have only limited items at breakfast (croissants, fruit salad, coffee), they're a fine choice if you're in a rush or just want something simple.
La Creperie (12 Rue Sufflot, toward the Pantheon) opens at 7:30am and is also a good choice - the crepes are fine, and this is also my go-to place in this neighborhood for omelets.
Around the corner at 160 Rue Saint-Jacques, Croc-Fac opens at 7am. I've only had coffee here, but they also have crepes, sandwiches, and other light fare. It's a big student favorite, so finding a table can be tough for eating on site.
Also nearby, you might check out Brasserie Balzar (49 Rue des Ecoles). I've only been here for dinner (mostly very traditional French cuisine - escargot (snails), rabbit, blood sausage (boudin noir), calf's head (tete de veau), etc), but they open at 8am so at that hour, they are sure to offer breakfast fare.
I would also suggest trying the breakfast at Salvia Hotel - it's a 4-star, and should therefore have a good assortment of hot and cold choices. In case you haven't stayed there before, the hotel looks lovely from the outside, and is in a very nice location.
Where to Find Casual Cafés near Pont Neuf
Rea's Question:
We will be in Paris in September. Do you have suggestions for cafes in the area of Pont Neuf that you would recommend? Local, not touristy, and not extravagant cafes would be appreciated. I am new to your newsletter and really enjoying it.
Susan's Answer:
Hi Rea, So glad you're enjoying the newsletter!
Virtually every cafe in the Pont Neuf location, due to its proximity of several top historic attractions, will have some diners who are tourists. However, I can recommend some where Parisians also eat. I'll also avoid a couple that I do feel are rather "touristy," meaning that the food isn't as good as it could be but visitors eat there anyway because of the location.
Since I don't know which side of the Pont Neuf bridge will be more convenient for you, I'm including a few recommendations for both sides. They're all reasonably priced, although the ones on the Right Bank are somewhat more expensive than those on the Left Bank.
Here are my choices on and near Quai du Louvre on the Right Bank near the bridge:
Cafe des Arts (corner of the Quai and Rue de l'Amiral de Coligny) - Casual small cafe, across from the east side of the Louvre. I like it for when I just want an omelet, or something else light - a sandwich, salad, onion soup, and omelets, or if I'm with someone else, maybe a cheese or charcuterie (hard sausages) platters to share. Or even just coffee or a limonade and a dessert.
Creperie Parisienne Paris (18 Quai du Louvre) - Savory and sweet crepes, sandwiches, salads. In my opinion, the best bet here are the salads, which are good. Otherwise, try one of the other places.
Bonne Table sur Seine (154 Voie Georges Pompidou) - This outdoor bar is down on the river bank, and focuses on drinks - but for food, the winners are the cheese, charcuterie, and seafood platters to share. And the view of the water is terrific - should be great in September, assuming the weather is good.
On the Left Bank, here are three more to consider:
Gioia (35 Rue Dauphine) - Freshly-made Italian cuisine with a focus on pizzas and pastas.
Le Petit Cambodge Dauphine (14 Rue Dauphine) - Excellent Cambodian cuisine - The bobuns (salads) and rice dishes are especially good - my favorite is the lemongrass chicken.
Le Bistro des Augustins (39 Quai des Grands Augustins) - The specialties here are hot toasted sandwiches and gratins (individual servings toasted cheese dishes) of all sorts.
Do Paris Restaurants Have Menus in English as Well as in French?
Jerry's Question:
I have been browsing numerous restaurant websites and I notice many have their menus in only French. Is this the norm in Paris or do they have menus in English as well? Thank you.
Susan's Answer:
Many if not most of the restaurants in the single-digit districts in central Paris do have menus with English translations - sometimes on the main menu, and sometimes as a separate menu. However, they don't always show up on the websites.
Most restaurants in neighborhoods popular with Paris visitors such as Saint Germain, the Marais, and Montmartre offer menus with English - not just for native English speakers from the US, UK, Canada, etc., but because a lot of visitors from other countries may know English but not French.
But yes, menus in French are the norm in much of the rest of Paris - specifically, in the double-digit arrondissements.
However, there are notable exceptions: the Montmartre neighborhood in the 18th, which has lots of tourists, and parts of the 16th arrondissement where lots of English-speaking ex-pats reside.
Menus with English translations are also becoming increasingly common in parts of the 10th (especially around the two train stations, Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est, as well as the Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood), 11th (much of Oberkampf), the Quartier Asiatique (sometimes called Triangle de Choisy) in the 13th (due to the diversity of Asian languages), the Montparnasse neighborhood in the 14th, and the Batignolles and Ternes neighborhoods in the 17th.
Since I don't know the locations of the restaurants you've been checking, I can't guess if English menus just aren't showing up or if they really don't exist, but in any case, a good free app to have on your phone is Google Translate.
If you have an iPhone, you can download it from the Apple store, and on an Android phone, it's available in the Google Play store. I've also heard good things about the DeepL app but haven't used it myself.
My Best Tip for Ordering in Paris Restaurants
Here's my #1 best tip, based on a few written-in-French-only menu mishaps including once accidentally ordering lambs' brains in cognac: if you know that you don't like foods or ingredients, learn the words in French before you go.
With no offense intended to traditional French cuisine, which a number of Parisian restaurants still embrace, for me that means knowing words associated with organ meats/offal (abats) such as brains (cervelle), kidneys (rognon), tongue (langue), stomach (tripe, tripoux, tablier de sapeur), gizzard (gésier), sweetbreads, ie, thymus (ris), and heart (coeur). I'm also not crazy about encountering parts of animals' heads, as in tête de veau (calf's head) or fromage de tête (head "cheese").
But that's not all. I also avoid boudin noir (black sausage, made from blood), salade périgourdine and salade landaise, which often feature chicken (or other poultry) livers and/or gizzards, and l'andouille and l'andouillette (stomach sausage).
I'm not a purist about my aversions - I'm fine with foie gras (foie = liver), paté (made from liver and probably other things I'd rather not know about), and charcuterie (sliced sausage).
Finally, here's my #2 second-best tip: keep a translation tool such as Google Translate on your phone, and when you're not sure what a word on a French-only menu means, use it.
How Far in Advance Should You Book Paris Restaurants?
Lynn's Question:
We are going to Paris from June 2 - 17 this year. I'm wondering how crowded it will be during this period? Yes, it is tourist season, but perhaps a bit early?
My question is about making dinner reservations far in advance of our arrival. We have 4 reservations made already and my husband doesn't like our lives to be booked up ahead. Generally if we want to have our outside meal at lunch, will we need reservations?
Susan's Recommendations:
To answer your last question first, no, not for lunch at an outside terrace (ie, sidewalk cafe). At the more casual places (such as a large brasserie), you can just sit down at any table that's free - no need to wait to be seated.
While Paris is somewhat less crowded with visitors in June than in July, August, or a few other super-busy times of the year such as Paris Fashion Week, you'll still notice plenty of crowds in the central neighborhoods most popular with tourists.
The trick to getting a seat at a terrace table (or inside a restaurant) for lunch even in the most crowded areas is to arrive a bit early - for example, 11:45am. If your chosen place isn't open yet, just wait outside.
It's also always good to be flexible. If the place where you want to eat looks crowded even at an early hour, just go somewhere else.
Another trick is to avoid places on the main streets, such as Boulevard Saint-Germain as well as within a block or three of major visitor attractions such as the Eiffel Tower. Go somewhere a few blocks away, and you'll usually leave the crowds behind.
In my experience, Parisians usually make restaurant reservations just a day or two in advance for most neighborhood dining, except for times involving special meals such as Christmas Eve or New Year's Eve, or offering exceptional culinary experiences or views.
I also personally do my best to avoid any place that I've seen featured prominently on social media. Some number of these are by "influencers" who get free meals in return for the promise of glowing write-ups. While there's nothing necessarily intrinsically wrong with places that do that, they're not usually the chef-owned small bistros serving memorable meals at fair prices, which is where I like to eat.
Also, for lunch, you can always just grab a sandwich or salad in a bakery and head to the closest park or even back to your hotel to eat.
Where to Eat Before a Sainte-Chapelle Concert
Jeffrey's Question:
We have tickets for a concert at Sainte Chapelle in June at 8pm. Can you suggest a few places that are open at 6pm for dinner before the concert and within walking distance of La Sainte Chapelle?
Susan's Suggestions:
Sure! But first, I'll start by saying that which one(s) you choose may depend on your strategy for your seat selection and standing in line before the concert at Sainte Chapelle.
As you may recall from when you were booking your tickets, two categories of seating are typically offered: Section 1, which is the front half of the seating area that is closest to the concert stage at the front, and Section 2, which is from about the seating section's midpoint to the back. So the earlier you get there, the more choice you have in where you sit within your section.
If you don't care, that's totally fine and it may give you more time for eating before the concert. And if you booked seats in Section 2 and sit near the back, that means you can rush out after the concert ends before the rest of the (slow-moving) crowd.
But if you do care (for example, you want to be near the front of Section 1 to see the musicians, or near the back of Section 1 or the front of Section 2 to get the fullest panoramic view of all the windows, then you should aim at being among the first in the security line waiting to get in - which means that you should arrive and start standing in line before or very soon after 7pm for an 8pm concert. (I like to be in the front of Section 2, so I always arrive at the line by 6:45pm.) I know that sounds insanely early, but the line moves very slowly, so basically, whenever you arrive, you'll have a wait at one point or another.
If you don't care where you sit, you can arrive later, but not right before the concert - your ticket will specify that you need to be in line at a certain time.
Here's the catch: Most of the best nearby cafes and bistros don't open until 7pm, which realistically won't give you enough time to get seated, order, have your food arrive, eat it, get the check and pay before standing in line for admission to the concert.
However, there are two good options on Ile de la Cité that do have continuous service and therefore will be open at 6pm: L'Annexe (5 Boulevard du Palais, across the street from Sainte Chapelle) and La Rose de France, (24 Place Dauphine at the tip of the island behind Sainte Chapelle, maybe a 5-minute walk to the front entrance; to be safe, you might want to make reservations.) An advantage of choosing L'Annexe is that if you get a sidewalk table, you can keep an eye on the line at Sainte-Chapelle and choose the right moment to go join it.
Another continuous service option across the bridge in the Latin Quarter is Le Lutèce at 8 Boulevard Saint-Michel; their food is quite good, but I'd make a reservation in order to secure a table at 5:30pm or 6pm because they're usually packed for late afternoon happy hour.
If you want more choices or if you don't want to feel rushed, you might considering having a quick snack pre-concert, and then after the concert ends, head across the street (Boulevard du Palais) to Les Deux Palais at #3 or Le Soleil d'Or at #15, which despite their seemingly touristy locations are both quite good (and favorites of the Parisians who work at the Palais de Justice next to Sainte Chapelle). Or go to Le Lutèce, or any other nearby Latin Quarter restaurant.
Wishing you a wonderful concert and dinner! The music and late-afternoon sun streaming through the chapel's gorgeous stained glass will make the evening feel magical, regardless of where you eat.
Where to Find Gluten-Free Bakeries, Cafes, & Restaurants in Paris
Maureen's Question:
I will be travelling with my granddaughter to Paris during the last week of December. She has celiac disease and is highly sensitive to gluten. Are there specialty markets and bakeries in the city centre? We are staying in the Les Halles area. I'm assuming most restaurants offer GF options. Thank you.
Susan's Answer:
Maureen, that sounds like a wonderful trip for both you and your granddaughter. Late December is a wonderful time to be in Paris since all of the holiday decorations and lights will still be sparkling, some Christmas markets will still be open, and you'll definitely feel a festive vibe as New Year's Eve approaches.
I am happy to share names of places where your granddaughter should be able to eat safely, including a wonderful bakery known for its delicious gluten-free pastries and with locations all over the city. But first, I want to start with a warning about finding gluten-free food in Paris restaurants.
Although some Paris restaurants do offer dishes that may appear to not include gluten (for example: steak-frites) and they may in fact be fine for someone with a gluten intolerance, no one should assume that they're safe for someone with celiac disease.
Here's the reason: the most common source of gluten is wheat flour, a staple in most Paris restaurant kitchens. In addition to being a key product in bread, crackers, and other products, it's also used for thickening sauces. Other products such as malt vinegar may contain small amounts of wheat, barley, or rye. Add to that the reality that kitchens in the average Parisian restaurant tend to be tiny - many are not much bigger than a coat closet - and you have the very real possibility of cross-contamination, including from flour particles wafting through the air. Just because a restaurant menu displays a gluten-free symbol next to one or two dishes doesn't mean they're safe for someone with celiac, even though they may be fine for someone with a gluten intolerance.
Since I do not want to sound unreasonably alarmist, I validated this information with a friend who's a Registered Dietitian and also familiar with Paris. We both agree that your granddaughter is fortunate that you are being so diligent about checking out where she can eat safely and avoid the pain and possible intestinal damage that occur when someone with celiac accidentally consumes food containing gluten. As an extra precaution, my friend also suggested writing on a card, "Je ne peux pas manger de gluten." (I cannot eat gluten.) You can also just point to an item on a menu and say "Sans gluten?" or "no gluten?" if you're speaking with someone who speaks English.
Of course, please don't consider any of this to be medical or nutritional advice - I'm assuming your granddaughter has a doctor or nutritionist who can provide the exact information that both of you need.
Here are my bakery and restaurant suggestions for bakeries and restaurants with 100% gluten-free kitchens (to prevent cross-contamination) close to where you're staying in the Les Halles area, based on my online research; I've eaten at few of them, but since I don't have celiac disease, all that I can attest to is that I liked the food. I've divided them into two categories, based on whether or not they're 100% gluten-free:
Dedicated/100% gluten-free places, which currently advertise dedicated or 100% gluten-free food preparation; because ingredients and kitchen practices can change, confirm directly before visiting:
- Copains - This is one of Paris's premier gluten-free bakery, and its so good that people (such as me) come here even if they don't need gluten-free food. They used not to be 100% gluten-free, but I believe that they are now. The almond croissants are quite delicious and I also love the apple turnovers. They even offer a few vegan items. You can check their website for locations - two are near Les Halles.
- Chambelland - Paris's other premier gluten-free bakery, offering both bread and yummy pastries (I highly recommend their chocolate treats). They have several Paris locations in Batignolles (17th), Oberkampf (11), and the 16th.
- Judy Cantine Qualitarienne (14 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Les Halles, 1st arr) - Casual cafe with coffee, tea, and 100% gluten-free/dairy-free/refined sugar-free pastries and homemade cuisine including gorgeous veggie bowls made from locally-sourced organic products - plus grocery and carryout.
- Thaisil (3 Rue du Nil, Sentier neighborhood, 2nd arr but very close to Les Halles) - Cambodian-Thai cuisine, 100% gluten- and lactose-free, with some vegan options on one of Paris's most famous food streets. Reservations are a good idea.
- La Sajerie (20 Rue d'Abbeville, 9th arr) - Middle Eastern food with freshly-baked flatbread wraps and hummus, 100% gluten-free.
- Manicaretti (60 Rue de Paradis, 10th arr) - Italian food, 100% gluten-free restaurant; open only for lunch. More information on their Instagram.
- NoGlu (locations in the 11th, 7th, and 12th) - 100% gluten-free - check their website for menus and addresses.
- Grom - Popular ice cream shop, with many shops throughout Paris, including one at 96 Rue Montorgueil
Places offering gluten-free options, where anyone with celiac disease should confirm current cross-contact procedures directly before eating there:
- O'scià Pizzeria Napoletana (42 Rue Tiquetonne, Sentier, 2nd arr, close to Les Halles) - Gluten-free pizza; although the restaurant is not 100% gluten-free, they apparently have a dedicated gluten-free kitchen space and GF oven for the gluten-free pizzas. The pasta is not gluten-free. I haven't been here, but they get high marks for both the GF and non-GF selections.
- LouLou (90 Boulevard Saint-Germain, Latin Quarter, 5th arr) - Casual spot in a convenient location open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with bread and pastries sourced from Chambeilland, a gluten-free bakery in the 9th arr. I've stopped by here a couple of times for coffee but the only thing I've eaten here was a lemon meringue tarte (at the time, I do remember vaguely noting that the crust was gluten-free).
- Cococo (35 Rue Coquillière, Les Halles, 1st arrondissement) - Excellent Japanese food. Offers gluten-free options. (Some soy sauce and even some noodles contain gluten, so Japanese food isn't universally safe.) Their food is also lactose free, for anyone who's lactose intolerant.
Where to Find Good Italian Restaurants in Paris
Christina's Question:
I will be in Paris for a week in late November-early October with my husband and 11-year-old son, and we would like to visit an Italian restaurant. We found Pink Mama but unfortunately it's booked. Any other suggestions for an Italian restaurant?
Susan's Reply:
Sure, I have three favorites for Italian food in Paris that I'm happy to recommend; for the first two, you should make reservations a day or two in advance:
Piccolo Caratello (8 Rue Audran in Montmartre, metro Abbesses) - In addition to this restaurant, they have a couple of other places on the same street - food is terrific.
La Rughetta - (41 Rue Lepic, Montmartre, 18th arr) - Extensive menu, but we noticed that everyone else (who appeared to be local - we were there in late February) had ordered pizza so we did the same, along with a salad to share - both were very good.
Davoli (34 Rue Cler; metro Ecole Militaire; maybe a 10-15 walk from the Eiffel Tower) on the Rue Cler market street in the 7th arrondissement. This is an Italian market, butcher, and deli where you can buy freshly-made food to carry out, but close by is Little Davoli (#41), Davoli's cafe where you can dine on food from the market - the food from both the deli and the cafe is quite delicious. I love eating at the cafe, which offers excellent people-watching opportunites from the outdoor tables.
Update: Here are two more Italian restaurants (by chance, both are in Montmartre) where I loved the food during a recent Paris visit:
Ristorante Promessa (49 Rue Caulaincourt, Montmartre) - Italian specialties from the Puglia region - so fairly seafood-centric and veggies featured fairly prominently in the pasta dishes. One of my favorite spots in Montmartre - although that's equally true for all of the Italian restaurants in Paris that I'm mentioning here.
Il Duca (26 Rue Yvonne Le Tac - About half a block from the Abbesses metro station, Montmartre, 18th arr) - Warm, welcoming vibe, and delicious food and wine, with a seasonal menu.
A Note about Wine Pairing: All of the above Italian restaurants offer, not surprisingly, Italian rather than French wine. I'm not really familiar with Italian wines so at each place, I asked the servers to suggest the best wine to go with the food I ordered, and in all cases, their choices complemented the food perfectly. So I recommend this approach if you want a glass of wine (or two, or a bottle) with your meal but don't know what to order.
Where to Find Great Italian Restaurants in Paris: Based on the number of places to enjoy Italian food in Paris, it's one of Parisians' favorite cuisines. In my experience, the best Italian restaurants are the small family-owned places you've never heard about from social media or anywhere else. You'll find them in just about every neighborhood, but for whatever reason, Montmartre has a particularly high concentration of excellent choices.
Where to Eat near Plenitude Arena (La Defense Arena)
Ray's Question:
Hi Susan, I have enjoyed reading all your Paris Q&A. We'll will be visiting Paris in September. May I ask if you have any recommendations where we can catch an early dinner near the Paris La Defense Arena?
Also, how late do most of the restaurants stay open in Paris? Thank you.
Susan's Answer:
My experience around the La Defense Arena (which, by the way, has recently been renamed Plenitude Arena after Eni Plenitude, an Italian energy company, bought the naming rights) has been that the reliably best places to eat are along a tiny lane called Jardin de l'Arche right before the arena.
To get to it (and the arena) from Paris, take the metro's Line 1 or RER A or E to the La Defense station. Once you go up the escalator to ground level, walk toward the Grande Arche, and on its left side, look for a pedestrian walk called Parvis de la Defense. Once you're past the Arche, the path veers slightly to the right, and becomes an elevated pedestrian walkway called the Promenade de l'Arche. Walking from the Arche to the Arena will take you about 8-10 minutes.
At the end of the Promenade, right before you reach the Arena, you'll spot three restaurants, one on the left and two on the right.
On your left at the CitizenM hotel, look for Le Comptoir des Iles. It offers typical French dishes, along with a good selection of small plates to share plus steaks and fish, and even some decent vegetarian options.
On the right, along a tiny lane called Jardin de l'Arche, look for Big B's (burgers) and Mesita Brasserie (bland versions of Tex-Mex and Latin American cuisine).
They're all better than you'd expect this close to a major arena as well as better than most other options around the Grande Arche and Esplanade; of the three, Mesita is probably my favorite, despite the lack of heat from chilis.
How Late Do Paris Restaurants Stay Open?
As for closing times at restaurants in Paris, it's hard to generalize. In the central arrondissements bordering the Seine - the 1st and 4th on the Right Bank and the 5th, 6th, and 7th on the Left Bank - some close as early as 10pm although many stay open to 11pm, and some don't close until midnight or even later. Keep in mind that they typically close their kitchens an hour or half or two hours before the restaurant closes its doors. I suspect it may because of the preponderance of tourists in these areas, including Americans who tend to eat dinner quite a bit earlier than many Parisians.
There are certainly exceptions Au Pied de Cochon in the Les Halles neighborhood in the 1st stays open until 5am, making it the go-to place for everyone who arrives very hungry from a late-arriving flight. In the student-dominated Latin Quarter, kebob shops stay open well past midnight. Also in the Latin Quarter, Le Petit Cafe (mentioned above; quite good) stays open until 2pm and Le Soufflot Cafe near the Pantheon stays open until 1am, although in my experience here, both food and service were only so-so.
Beyond these very central tourist-dominated districts, closing times trend later. Some bouillons, such as Bouillon Chartier in the 9th and Bouillon Julien in the 10th, stay open until midnight. The areas near train stations usually have some options, such as Café les Deux Gares in the 10th near Gare du Nord and Gare l'Est. And in lively lively neighborhoods in East Paris such as Oberkampf (11th) and Belleville (10th, 11th, 19th, 20th), closing at midnight is more normal.
If you want to locate restaurants that are open late near where you're staying, the best thing to do is to ask your hotel as they will be likely to have a number of nearby options.
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