Paris cafes, bakeries, and coffee shops play an essential role in the daily lives of most Parisians, and as a visitor, you'll also find them incredibly useful.
You may start your day with a coffee and croissant on a sunny terrace in front of a neighborhood café, stop by a boulangerie a few hours later to pick up a sandwich or salad for lunch, and enjoy an afternoon espresso break at one of the city's growing number of specialty coffee shops.
Most Parisian boulangeries offer far more than bread. Along with croissants, pain au chocolat, and other breakfast pastries, many sell sandwiches, salads, slices of quiche, soup, and tarts, and may even provide a few tables inside or on a sidewalk "terrace." Many bakeries, especially in central Paris, now also offer to-go coffee in paper cups with lids. Over 90% of Parisians live within a 5-minute (or less) walk from a bakery - and as a visitor, you'll also love this convenience.
Neighborhood cafés offer similar fare along with fast-prep items such as omelets, burgers, and croques monsieurs (a slice of bread topped with ham, cheese, and béchamel sauce, and then toasted under a broiler) for you to eat on site, and often serve as neighborhood social hubs. Although coffee is the standard beverage of choice, the quality is hit-or-miss; occasionally excellent, but more often, mediocre. However, cafes are as much about social interaction as the quality of what's served there - the proverbial "clean, well-lighted place," as Hemingway once called them.
About 15 years ago, "third wave" coffee shops such as KB Coffee Roasters in the 9th arrondissement and Café Kitsuné (1st arr) began to appear, dramatically changing Paris's coffee scene. Today, excellent coffee is easy to find, thanks in part to the growing number of specialty coffee shops using high-quality beans and careful brewing methods.
In the Sunday edition of my free Paris Discoveries Newsletter, I answer reader questions about Paris travel, and readers frequently ask about favorite bakeries, good places for breakfast, casual cafés near the attractions they're visiting, and where to find excellent coffee.
This article, part of the Paris Discoveries Q&A Archive, brings together those real reader questions and my answers based on my own experiences of stopping by boulangeries for a still-warm pain au chocolat, lingering over casual meals in cafés while reading a book or indulging in people-watching, and discovering new "third wave" specialty coffee shops in every Paris neighborhood.
You'll find my local recommendations along with practical tips for choosing cafés and bakeries, ordering coffee, and finding good places for a quick breakfast, snack, or light meal.
I've lightly edited, expanded, and updated my original answers, and added photos and related resources where useful.
Top photo: Cafe de Flore, one of the famous "literary cafes" in Saint-Germain long associated with artists and writers, including Ernest Hemingway, (c) Paris Discovery Guide
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Where to Find Great Bakeries & Breakfast near the Panthéon
Sharon's Question:
We will be staying the Hotel Residence Henri IV in the Latin Quarter (5th Arrondissement).
Do you have any favorite boulangeries or favorite breakfast spots close to our hotel?
Susan's Recommendations:
Yes, I have several wonderful places to recommend in this quiet corner of the Latin Quarter (the area to the east of the Pantheon between Boulevard Saint Germain, Rue Monge, and Place de l'Estrapade), because I stay in this neighborhood fairly frequently, including about 10 days during my visit last March.
My favorites include:
Boulangerie Moderne (16 Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques near Place de l'Estrapade) - Although their croissants and other breakfast pastries are quite good, their fancier patisseries such as eclairs, flan, and fruit tarts are even better. They also offer tasty sandwiches and excellent salads - my favorite is the French lentil salad with bits of ham and something crispy such as radishes when they're in season. While you're inside, enjoy the lovely Art Nouveau signs and painted ceiling.
Where to eat nearby:
When the limited seating in front of the bakery fills up, walk across the street to Place de l'Estrapade and claim a park bench.
La Maison d'Isabelle (47 Boulevard Saint-Germain, across from the Maubert-Mutualité metro station) - You'll almost always see a long line of customers waiting outside this small bakery, known for its crispy, highly-lacquered butter croissants and other mouth-watering pastries - the pains au chocolat are also amazing, and their tarte au citron (lemon tart) is one of the city's best. Thankfully the line moves quickly. Although all the standard lunch selections - soups, salads, sandwiches - are quite good, the quiche is usually outstanding.
Where to eat nearby:
This bakery has no onsite seating because of the metro station escalator outside their door, so take your treats over to Square Paul Langevin where finding a free bench is usually fairly easy.
Le Petit Café (6 Rue Descartes) - This neighborhood fixture opens at 9am and offers a couple of simple choices for breakfast: a croissant or tartine (bread, butter, jam), juice, and tea or coffee or hot chocolate, with the option of adding an egg and bacon for a few more euros. Lunch and dinner menus include casual Paris bistro classics made in house such as steak-frites, duck confit, roast chicken (my favorite here), and burgers.
Bonus: The cafe stays open until 2am - always good to keep in mind if you somehow miss dinner or arrive on a late flight.
The Coffee (77 Rue Cardinal Lemoine) - This is my favorite place at the moment for good coffee in this area - farther away from your hotel than the other places I've mentioned, but in my caffeine-loving opinion, worth the walk. Although it does offer cupcakes and cookies (which are quite good), the focus is on the coffee and tea drinks. It features a Japan-inspired theme, and is part of a Brazil-based franchise. Unfortunately, limited seating means you may need to take your beverage to go.
Where to sip your coffee:
Although Place de la Contrescarpe is nearby, seating options there are always scarce. Arènes de Lutece, not much more than a block away, offers much better choices, including the tiers of seats where almost 1,900 years ago, spectators watched the action in the arena during the Roman occupation. That's where I usually go - unless luck shines on me and I get a seat at The Coffee.
Where to Find Breakfast near Boulevard Saint-Michel & the Panthéon
Carlos's Question:
I will be hosted at Salvia Hotel during first days of October. Any good places nearby to have breakfast?
Susan's Recommendations:
Hi Carlos, Le Petit Cafe, which I mentioned to Sharon in the above message, is also just a few blocks from the Hotel Salvia and a good choice for breakfast.
Also, Pret a Manger (49 Boulevard Saint-Michel) opens at 7am weekdays and 8am on the weekends and is around the corner from your hotel. They're a British chain, and although the ones I've been to have only limited items at breakfast (croissants, fruit salad, coffee), they're a fine choice if you're in a rush or just want something simple.
La Creperie (12 Rue Sufflot, toward the Pantheon) opens at 7:30am and is also a good choice - the crepes are fine, and this is also my go-to place in this neighborhood for omelets.
Around the corner at 160 Rue Saint-Jacques, Croc-Fac opens at 7am. I've only had coffee here, but they also have crepes, sandwiches, and other light fare. It's a big student favorite, so finding a table can be tough for eating on site.
Also nearby, you might check out Brasserie Balzar (49 Rue des Ecoles). I've only been here for dinner (mostly very traditional French cuisine - escargot (snails), rabbit, blood sausage (boudin noir), calf's head (tete de veau), etc), but they open at 8am so walk by and see what they're serving.
I also suggest trying the breakfast at Salvia Hotel - it's a 4-star, which means that it must have at least 11 breakfast choices (this is mandated by France's star rating system), and so it most likely offers a good assortment of hot and cold food choices as well as coffee, tea, and hot chocolate. In case you haven't stayed there before, I can tell you that the hotel looks lovely from the outside, and is in a very nice location.
How to Order Your Coffee in Paris
If you're visiting France from another country, the terminology can be confusing. Plus, unlike in the U.S. and some other countries, cream or milk is not typically offered in a pitcher on the side. If you want milk in your coffee, you're expected to order a drink that includes it by definition, such as a noisette or crème. Sugar is provided for you to add if you want; it will never be added to your beverage before being served (unless you are at a "second wave" coffee shop such as Starbucks).
Here's a quick breakdown of what to ask for - and what you'll get:
Un Café - A shot of espresso made with a traditional amount of water, and without any milk or sugar.
Allongé - An espresso made with double the normal amount of water; a standard in traditional Paris cafes.
Noisette - An espresso with a dash of steamed milk. The name means "hazelnut," referring to the color rather than the flavor.
Flat white - Usually two shots of espresso topped with steamed milk and a thin layer of microfoam.
Café crème - An espresso with a more generous amount of steamed milk and foam. Also traditionally called café au lait (especially before about 8am, but almost never in a 3rd wave coffee shop) or in some places, a latte, which may be somewhat larger and served in a tall glass.
Cappuccino - Similar to a latte but slightly less steamed milk and more foam than a latte, sometimes with the option of a sprinkle of chocolate on top.
Americano - An espresso diluted with hot water to produce a mellower version of an allongé. Look for it in "2nd wave" places like Starbucks and Pret a Manger plus some specialty coffee shops in areas frequented by international visitors.
Café filtre - Filter-brewed coffee that's similar to American-style coffee; this is relatively common in speciality coffee shops, where it may be prepared as a pour-over, but normally not available in elsewhere.
Should you ever ask for extra milk on the side in Paris? You can, but you may see a look of horror flash across your server's face for an instant, and you will be charged a few extra euros for it, which is consistent with coffee drinks containing milk always costing a few euros more than those without.
Where to Find Casual Cafés near Pont Neuf
Rea's Question:
We will be in Paris in September. Do you have suggestions for cafes in the area of Pont Neuf that you would recommend? Local, not touristy, and not extravagant cafes would be appreciated. I am new to your newsletter and really enjoying it.
Susan's Answer:
Hi Rea, So glad you're enjoying the newsletter!
Because Pont Neuf is so close to several major historic attractions, virtually every cafe here will have some diners who are tourists. However, I can recommend some where Parisians also eat. I'll also avoid a couple that I do feel are rather "touristy," meaning that the food isn't as good as it could be but visitors eat there anyway because of the convenient location.
Since I don't know which side of the Pont Neuf bridge will be more convenient for you, I'm including a few recommendations for both sides. They're all reasonably priced, although the ones on the Right Bank are somewhat more expensive than those on the Left Bank.
Here are my suggestions on and near Quai du Louvre on the Right Bank near the bridge:
Cafe des Arts (corner of the Quai and Rue de l'Amiral de Coligny) - Casual small cafe, across from the east side of the Louvre. I like it for when I just want an omelet, or something else light - a sandwich, salad, or onion soup, or if I'm with someone else, maybe a cheese or charcuterie (cured meats) platter to share. Or even just coffee or a limonade and a dessert.
Creperie Parisienne Paris (18 Quai du Louvre) - Savory and sweet crepes, sandwiches, salads. In my opinion, the best bets here are the salads, which are good. Otherwise, try one of the other places.
Bonne Table sur Seine (154 Voie Georges Pompidou) - This outdoor bar is down on the river bank, and focuses on drinks - but for food, the winners are the cheese, charcuterie, and seafood platters to share. And the view of the water is terrific - should be great in September, assuming the weather is good.
On the Left Bank, here are three more to consider:
Gioia (35 Rue Dauphine) - Freshly-made Italian cuisine with a focus on pizzas and pastas.
Le Petit Cambodge Dauphine (14 Rue Dauphine) - Excellent Cambodian cuisine - The bobuns (salads) and rice dishes are especially good - my favorite is the lemongrass chicken.
Le Bistro des Augustins (39 Quai des Grands Augustins) - The specialties here are hot toasted sandwiches and gratins (individual servings toasted cheese dishes) of all sorts.
See More Questions & Answers about Where to Eat in Paris
Wondering about where to find more places to eat or types of cuisine for your Paris visit? You'll find those Q&A archives here:
Paris Discoveries Q&A Archive - See Q&As on all topics
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