Recommended Paris RestaurantsReader Questions Answered

For many visitors to Paris, the opportunity to enjoy authentic French food is one of the most anticipated highlights of the journey - but where to find it once you've finally arrived? 

In the Sunday edition of my free Paris Discoveries Newsletter, I answer reader questions about Paris travel.  Recently, several readers have asked whether it makes sense to move from one Parisian neighborhood and hotel to another when time permits.

This article is part of the Paris Discoveries Q&A Archive and brings together my answers based on my own experiences with staying in multiple neighborhoods on longer trips.  

You'll find advice about whether splitting your stay is worth doing, how to choose neighborhood combinations, hotel suggestions for several popular areas, and practical tips for making the move from one hotel to another easier. 

I've lightly edited, expanded, and updated my original answers, and added photos to make this a more complete Paris travel resource. 

Where Are Some Great Non-Touristy Restaurants for Breakfast & Dinner near Notre Dame?

Kirk's Question:

Hi Susan, I'm bringing my family of 5 adults and 1 grandchild (3 months) from Australia to Paris for 3 nights staying on Rue Chanoinesse next to Notre Dame. 

Hoping you could suggest some great places for breakfast and dinner that are not touristy.

Susan's Answer: 

Hi Kirk, That's a wonderful street and a very convenient location in Ile de la Cité.  I'm sure you'll all enjoy your stay.

Almost by definition, that's a very touristy area because some of the most famous attractions in the world are located here and a significant number of visitors to Paris come to this tiny island in the Seine to see Notre Dame Cathedral.   Sainte-Chapelle with its stunning walls of 12th-century stained glass and La Conciergerie, the medieval castle-turned-prison where Marie Antoinette spent her final days also attract their share of visitors. 

So it's virtually impossible to eat anywhere near here without encountering other tourists, especially since only a fraction of a percentage of Paris residents live on Ile de la Cité. 

But that doesn't mean that there aren't a number of very good restaurants nearby, including one around the corner from Rue Chanoinesse that I highly recommend for its classic French dishes (frogs legs, escargot, steak-frites, and a number of other tasty dishes, Les Deux Colombes.

Down toward the other end of the island, there are a couple of good brasseries offering continuous service: Les Deux Palais and Le Soleil d'Or.  Both have great terrace (outdoor) seating with excellent people-watching if the weather is mild, and are reasonably large inside as well.  Both offer a mix of French classics (onion soup, beef bourgnogne, etc.) along with a few more modern dishes.  I have a slight preference for Les Deux Palais because I like their salads and omelettes, plus it opens at 7am so it would also be a possibility for breakfast, but you really can't go wrong with either of them. 

Finally, if you're looking for a spot for morning coffee and maybe a croissant, Le Saint-Regis on Ile Saint Louis has a nice terrace with wonderful views.  Other meals there can be hit or miss.  Another spot for decent (usually) coffee is Noir coffee shop, on Rue Saint-Louis en I'Ile.  The island also has several creperies (mostly take-away, or very limited seating), plus a good bakery and an excellent cheese shop.  There are also a number of small bistros, so stroll around and check out the menus at the ones that appeal to you.

From Rue Chanoinesse, you can also easily access the Latin Quarter and the Marais - although with a baby, you may prefer the convenience of being closer to where you're staying.

What's a Great Place for Dinner near Palais Royal Garden?

Shelley's Question:

We have never been to Paris, but we are taking a Tauck Normandy cruise next September, then staying in Paris another four days post-cruise.

We have rented an Airbnb near Galerie Montpensier, and are looking for a really yummy place for a dinner - can you recommend one?  

Susan's Answer: 

Let me start by saying you're staying in a fabulous location, as Galerie Montpensier runs along the western side of Palais Royal Garden, one of Paris's most beautiful almost-hidden gardens.  Plus there's a fascinating assortment of shops tucked away under the arcades on the ground floor of the galerie.

I stay in this neighborhood frequently, partly because I love the garden and surrounding area, and partly because it's a super-convenient location. 

The area surrounding the garden is filled with lots of wonderful restaurants.  

Here are a few of my personal favorites that are very close by:

• Le Grand Vefour - On the north side of Palais Royal - easy to spot the tables among the colonnades.  Open (aside from a few interruptions) since the late 1700s, when Palais Royal's garden was the epicenter of entertainment, shopping, gambling, prostitution, and dining for upper-class Parisians (yes, wild times four centuries ago).  Today, a well-known French chef, Guy Martin, oversees the restaurant and designs the menu - modern versions of French haute cuisine classics.  Best values and (in my opinion) more interesting choices are on the weekday fixed price menus offered for lunch and dinner.  The food is good, but the real reason to come is the setting and ambiance.  Make reservations online a week or so in advance.
  Tip 1:  The outdoor tables overlooking the garden offer lovely views but for a special experience, book a table in the "Salle Historique" dining room inside - it retains its original "art decoratif" decor, with lots of mirrors and painted panels.
  Tip 2:  If you choose an outside table but want to see the lovely interior, go inside to use the restroom.
• Café Kitsuné and Muscade - Excellent spots for a relaxing drink and perhaps a small snack at a terrace table overlooking Palais Royal Garden - both are under the ground-level arcade of Galerie de Montpensier. 
• Juveniles - Wine bar/bistro - the menu changes frequently, based on what's good in the markets.  Modern updates to bistro classics (except for the traditional-style house-made terrine and foie-gras).  Very good wines - Juveniles is known for discovering gems from lesser-known regions.  It is very small (9-10 tables), with lots of fans; for a September date, make reservations online 2-3 weeks ahead, especially if you want a table for the early seating at 7pm; they will contact you to confirm.
• Bistro Valois - If you're a fan of "Emily in Paris," you may remember this bistro from a few episodes.  It's just beyond the east side of the garden. Casual, simple French bistro dishes with daily specials and, except for an enormous steak for two, moderate prices.  Food here is usually very good.  You can book online - a day ahead is normally fine.  Or just walk up, making sure to be on the early side to get a table.  
• Finally, H.A.N.D., near Juveniles on Rue de Richelieu - It's the owner's homage to American food, based memories from a trip he made to California.  But except for the desserts, think of it more like a French version of California cuisine.  It's my favorite place in Paris for a burger, and the carrot cake and lemon meringue pie are also outstanding - actually, everything I've had here has been great.  Nice vibe too.  Open daily for breakfast/lunch, and dinner on Wednesday through Saturday. 

Since you're visiting Paris for the first time, I'm guessing that you're probably primarily interested in trying French cuisine - but I also want to point out that Rue Sainte-Anne and nearby streets located a couple of blocks to the west of the garden, form the epicenter of some of the best Asian food in Paris. 

Some of my long-time favorites include La Taverne de Zhao (Rue Moliere), Kunitoraya (Rue Villedo), Kadoya (Rue Sainte-Anne), On the Bab and Sapporo (Rue Therese), and a snack to take to the park for a picnic, Aki Boulangerie (Rue Sainte-Anne).

Where Can We Find Really Good Restaurants Serving Modern French Cuisine in Paris?

I am going to Paris with my wife in January. Not the first time we've been there.

Can you recommend some really good restaurants with modern French cuisine for our 5 dinners?  Also some nice bars where we can go and enjoy drinks and ambience.

Susan's Suggestions

This is an excellent question.  I'm going to share a number of suggestions - way more than enough for 5 dinners, so that you can check out their menus online and decide which ones align best with what you and your wife would enjoy, and also figure out which locations work best for you.  I've been to a number of them myself, heard good things about others from friends whose judgment I trust, and a couple are on my list to try.  

I'm also happy to recommend some bars with a nice ambiance.

First, restaurants:

• Hugo & Co - 5th arr, Latin Quarter - The owner/chef, Tomy Gousset, has a Michelin star for one of his other locations (Tomy & Co in the 7th arr) but this one is my favorite - the menu changes often, and I've loved every dish I've had here - always innovative.  Good wine list too.  Very small, so make reservations a week or so in advance.  One slightly quirky thing: you are expected to order three courses, but the portions are a reasonable size so I've never had an issue finishing every bite.
• Juveniles - 1st arrondissement, near the Louvre - Formerly a simple wine bar that's now become more of a bistro (although it's still famous for its wine) - tiny spot where the chef/owner (and son-in-law of the founder) creates "bistronomic" cuisine.  One of my favorites.  I also recommended it (above) to Shelley who's staying nearby - so please see my answer to her  for more details.
  
  One more note about Juveniles:  they've always specialized in lesser-known regions and vintages - Beaujolais and Languedoc before they became widely recognized, sherries from overlooked parts of Spain, South America.  While they offer wine by the glass to pair with each evening's courses, don't hesitate to ask about other bottles that you might want to try - you'll see cases of them lining one of the walls, because in essence, Juveniles continues to be an excellent wine bar that just happens to server really good food.
• Comice - 16th arr - Modern versions of haute cuisine - ie, small portions beautifully presented.  The two owners are Canadian.  Comice has a Michelin star and is in the wealthy, generally conservative 16th arrondissement.  There are several tasting menus (4, 5, and 6 courses) and an à la carte menu.  I haven't been here, but I have a couple of friends who enjoyed it.  The food presentations (in photos) look lovely and creative, without being too innovative.
• Pierre Sang - 11th arr, Oberkampf - Modern French cuisine with Korean touches - very innovative and good.  The chef/owner opened this small bistro in one of Paris's trendiest neighborhoods (especially for food) almost 15 years ago.  It's known for its open kitchen surrounded by counter seating, and constantly changing menus which you cannot view ahead of time, so every meal is a surprise.  It sounds gimmicky, but I've enjoyed it the couple of times I've been here - lots of fun.  It's tiny and hard to get reservations - so for a January visit, book now.
• FIEF - 11th arr, Oberkampf - The restaurant's name is an acronynym for "Fait Ici en France" (made in France) - in other words, all local ingredients, and the chef has one Michellin star.  There are three tasting menus - vegan, omnivore (meat, fish, vegetables), and a much more expensive experience where the chef explains (in French) each dish as it's served to you at the counter.  Expect small portions of innovative creations, beautifully presented and delicious.  
• Le Grand Vefour - This is also mentioned in the question above but worth recommending here again, because the owner, Guy Martin, focuses on serving modern versions of traditional French food and the historical dining room is gorgeous (there's also a more modern dining room, but for the full ambiance, reserve Salle Historique, the beautiful older one).  The food is perhaps less creative than it could be, but very good - If you go, consider the daily fixed price menu (Monday - Friday only) because it's more creative than the regular carte.
• Eels - 10th arr, in a newly hip neighborhood - Both an à la carte and tasting menu - very good modern (and creative) French cuisine.  It was really popular when it first opened, but the food is even better now, in my opinion.  Easy to book.
• Bouillon Racine (6th arr, Saint-Germain) - This very trendy spot serves modern versions of casual French fare - in some cases (onion soup) almost identical to the original, and in other cases, with more modern flourishes.  I wouldn't call the food innovative or even especially creative, but it's always reliably good and the dining rooms (ground floor and upstairs) are both gorgeous.  
• Flocon - 5th arr, Latin Quarter - Flocon is easy to miss among all creperies and kebab shops on Rue Mouffetard, partly because their sign is small and hard to spot.  This is a small bistro with a chef/owner who specializes in creative modern French cuisine.  A hotel where I stayed 5-6 years recommended it to me soon after it opened.  It was very good then, but I've liked it even more each time I've been back.  Fairly easy to book.

Now for bars. 

Here are a few you might enjoy:

• La Fantasie rooftop bar - 9th arr, Rue Cadet market street (but of course sit inside in January) - Lovely decor.  I would make reservations;  I've only been in the outside space, but was definitely glad we'd booked as there was a line of people waiting to get in.
• Bar Josephine, at Hotel Lutecia - 6th arr - Named after American-born jazz musician Josephine Baker and French Résistance agent.  Very posh, with beautiful frescos and (usually) a jazz pianist on Thursday - Saturday.  Make reservations.
• Terrass Hotel Rooftop Bar at the Terrass Hotel, 18th arr, Montmartre - Gorgeous distant views of the Eiffel Tower. No reservations, but usually not hard to get a table.
• The Hemingway Bar at the RItz at the Ritz Hotel in Place Vendome, 8th arr - Very retro.  American novelists Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald drank here in the 1920s.
• Rehab Bar - 1st arr - Styled as a "speakeasy" in the basement of Hotel Normandy - you go through a mirrored door in the hotel's restaurant and then down a spiral staircase and into a nicely decorated room - trendy right now, and although it's slightly gimicky, it's fun.
• Les Ambassadors, at the Hotel Crillon, 8th arr - Gorgeous space in this former palace.
• Duc des Lombards - 1st arr - This is a jazz club - but like most Paris jazz clubs, it's also a bar.  You can check the website (click the What's On link) to find out who's playing.  Some shows are free admission (with the expectation that you'll buy a drink or two).  If the musician is well-known, there may be a cover charge (and you're still expected to buy a drink).  There are also other jazz clubs on the same street (Rue des Lombards) and nearby.  I'd skip the food at all of them.

Diane's Question about Seafood Restaurants

Diane's question:

I'm coming to Paris in December, and looking for a seafood restaurant that specializes in fresh fish, especially oysters. Hopefully somewhere quiet, and away from the tourist crowd - ideally somewhere that Parisians would go. Thank you.

Susan's answer: 

Hi Diane,

Here are several excellent oyster-focused seafood bars and cafes where you're less likely to encounter tourists: 

• Chasse Marée (60 Avenue Mozart, near the Rue Assomption food street, 16th arr) - Classic French seafood restaurant connected to the fish market next door, with oysters, many other kinds of shellfish, and fish flown in from Brittany every morning, plus a decent wine list, reasonably priced.  Since you asked specifically about oysters, you really owe it to yourself to come here.  Plus you find other treats along Rue Assomption if you want dessert.  Closed Monday and Sunday, open for lunch and dinner, and doesn't close
• Pleine Mer (22 Rue de Chabrol, near Gare de l'Est, 10th arr) - Oyster bar, featuring oyster, sea urchin, and a few other marine specialties flown in from Cancale, Brittany each morning.  Wine by the glass.  Eat on site, or carry out.  Open Wednesday - Saturday, plus Sunday morning
• Sur Mer (1 Rue de Marseille, Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood, 10th arr) - A favorite of Parisian foodies whose tastes and values align with the emphasis on fish and shellfish sourced from small artisanal fishing boats and fishermen committed to line fishing, plus natural wines; open for dinner Tuesday - Saturday.  The menu changes daily based on what's fresh and available.

Since you're going to be in Paris in December when the number of tourists drops compared with the busier summer season, you might also consider shellfish bars and seafood brasseries in more central districts (the first two are well-known; the third, less so): 

• Vaudeville (9 Rue Vivienne, 2nd arr) - Brasserie with Art Deco vibes serving traditional French specialites including fresh seafood platters.  There's an oyster bar, oyster tasting platter, and even a very affordable "Happy Hour" special for 3 oysters and a glass of Savignon.  I haven't tried their oysters but I can vouch for the deliciousness of their fish tartares and steak-au-poivre with frites.
• Le Mary Celeste (1 Rue Commines, 3rd arr) - Oyster and wine bar in the Upper Marais, plus a few other main courses.
• Seulement Sea (9 Rue Lobineau, 6th arr) - By Marché Saint Germain, where it buys its super-fresh seafood each morning.  Specialty is mussels (a favorite of one of my daughters), but they're also famous for their Mediterranean-style aioli platter with seasonal fish (my fave).  Despite being in the heart of Saint-Germain, I usually see as many Parisians as tourists here throughout most of the year, although all bets are off for peak tourist season in June and July. 

Classic Seafood Brasseries in Montparnasse - They're all fairly touristy, expensive, and famous in part because of the famous artists and writers who used to gather in them - but the seafood is top quality and Parisians also come here (which is why you should make reservations for the weekends, even in the winter): 

• Le Dome (108 Boulevard du Montparnasse, 14th) - Popular with both Parisians and tourists.  The bouillabaisse is legendary, although it's for a minimum of 2 people, which is sad for solo diners.  You might want to avoid Sunday lunch, when it's often packed with Parisian families.
• La Coupole (102 Boulevard du Montparnasse, 14th) - In my opinion, they have the best oyster bar and seafood platters as well as lobsters and other crustaceans - plus lovely Art Decor painted panels, and a cabaret with music, burlesque, and dancing in the basement on one Saturday each month. 
• La Rotonde (104 Boulevard du Montparnasse, 14th) - Very good selection of oysters, shrimp, and clams, plus impressive seafood platters.  Their sidewalk terrace is one of my favorite spots in this area to enjoy a beverage and people-watching.

Recommended Restaurants near Hotel de Crillon

Diane K.'s question:

I am new subscriber to your helpful newsletter ....we need great recommendations for dinners and lunches while in Paris for 7 days...staying at Hotel de Crillon.  Thank you so very much!

Susan's answer: 

Hi Diane,  Thank you for your kind words about the newsletter.

The Crillon is not much more than a block away from one of my favorite “almost-secret” spots in Paris - a small “passage” called La Village Royale, which you can access from either Rue Royal (the more impressive entrance) or Rue Boissy d'Anglais.  It's lined with designer boutiques, and has a small bistro called La Village (about midway down on the right if you enter from Rue Royal), which is one of my favorite spots in this area for a late lunch, especially at one of the outdoor tables on a sunny afternoon.  It's food has always been reliably good, in my experience, but the main appeal is the tranquil setting.

There's also another much fancier historical haute cuisine Michelin-starred restaurant a bit further up the street at the corner of Place de la Madeleine called Maison Lucas Carton, which is renowned for its beautiful interior.  

You're also not far from Angelina on Rue de Rivoli.  Although I'm personally not a fan of their very thick hot chocolate, they have do have nice teas and pastries, and the Art Nouveau decor is stunning.

Definitely ask your hotel for recommendations too - I'm sure they'll be able to give you many wonderful suggestions nearby.

Recommended Restaurants near Rue Cler in the 7th Arrondissement

Sherry's question:

Four of my family members, all women, have rented an apartment at the corner of Avenue de Breteuil and Avenue Duquesne. I'd appreciate dining suggestions in the area.

Susan's answer: 

That's a wonderful part of the 7th - close to so many things! I stayed in that area two years ago - the first night at Hotel La Comtesse in order to enjoy the spectacular Eiffel Tower views, and then a couple of weeks at a friend's nearby apartment. She wasn't there at the time so I was on my own for dinner and tried most of the nearby restaurants.

Here's what I found (keep in mind that I'm not a food critic - these are just my personal impressions, and in some cases are based on just one experience):

Avenue Duquesne - The place I liked best was D'Chez Eux (on the side street Avenue de Lowendal); Chez Denis was a close second (decor is nicer than D'Chez). Both serve traditional French dishes.

At the end of the street by the Ecole Militaire metro station, I tried most of the places - they were ok but the nearby Rue Cler market street has better options.

Rue Cler - This is a quintessential Parisian market street with traditional shops for produce, cheese, and meats, a good bakery, an excellent chocolatier, a couple of florists, and a number of places offering their own prepared foods to eat on the spot or take home, including a butcher shop with a rotisserie grill - definitely buy a rotisserie chicken (whole or a piece) and veggies to have for dinner in your apartment one evening.

In addition, the street is lined with small cafes that get their ingredients at the shops along the street, and then prepare and serve them.

I ate at most of them and enjoyed the food - you really can't go wrong. I was there in May and June, so always sat at one of the outdoor tables.

Rue Saint-Dominique - There are a number of small cafes along this street, and one posh-looking restaurant, Thoumieux, where I broke my own rule about avoiding any place that looks like it was designed to look good on social media - and yes, this was my one disappointing meal during the whole trip. The place that I liked best on this street was Bar du Central - wonderful onion soup, eggs mayo, duck confit, croque monsieur, etc.

Also, if you need a pharmacy (French pharmacies provide consultations and treatments if you have minor ailments or need first aid), the one at the corner of Rue de la Comete is quite good - I hobbled in one day with a very nasty blister that I'd ignored and the pharmacist gave me a special type of bandages and an antiseptic ointment that provided almost instant relief. I also got my hair cut one day at the Franck Provost salon next door - a fun experience and also a wonderful cut.

 

 

 

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See Questions & Answers on Similar Topics

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• Where to Stay in the Marais (placeholder: add links later)
• Where to Stay in Saint-Germain (placeholder: add links later)

Paris Neighborhoods & Hotels - Where to stay in Paris + choosing the right hotel

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