Should You Split Your Visit between Different Neighborhoods?

If you're visiting Paris for a week or more, should you consider splitting your stay between two or more neighborhoods so that you can experience different parts of the city?

In the Sunday edition of my free Paris Discoveries Newsletter, I answer reader questions about Paris travel. Recently, readers have asked whether it makes sense to move from one Parisian neighborhood and hotel to another when time permits.

This article is part of the Paris Discoveries Q&A Archive and brings together my answers based on my own experiences with staying in multiple neighborhoods on longer trips.

You'll find advice about whether splitting your stay is worth doing, how to choose best-for-you neighborhood combinations, hotel suggestions for several popular areas, and.

I've lightly edited, expanded, and updated my original answers, included a few practical tips for making the move from one hotel to another easier, and added photos to make this a more complete Paris travel resource.

Where to Dine on Traditional French Food near the Sorbonne as a Solo Diner?

Canal Saint-Martin, in Paris's 10th arrondissement

Lee's Question:

I have finally booked my dream trip to Paris for my 50th birthday and I will be staying near the Sorbonne.

Can you please tell me some places where I can eat traditional French food as a solo female traveller?

Susan's Answer:

That sounds like a fabulous way to celebrate the start of your 5th decade.

Students from the Sorbonne, a couple of highly-selective high schools (Lycée Louis-le-Grand and Lycée Henri IV), and other schools dominate this area, but among all the small cafes with budget-friendly menus featuring mostly Asian, Middle Eastern, and Indian cuisine, there are also some good places offering traditional French fare.

But first, in case you want to toast your birthday with a celebratory drink, alcoholic or not (sans) and iconic skyline views, here are two rooftop terrace/bars near the Sorbonne where you'll feel comfortable as a solo guest (and likely not be the only one) while enjoying the fabulous rooftop views:

La Toit de la Tour ("The Tower Roof") at 400-year-old Tour d'Argent restaurant - Sweeping views overlooking the Seine River (the restaurant itself does not accept bookings for one but the rooftop terrace does)
Hotel Dame des Arts' Rooftop Bar - Open to the public as well as hotel guests.

You can (and should) reserve your spot a few days or more in advance; both will require your credit card number in order to book and will charge a fee if you're a no-show. Both bars may limit your time on the terrace to two hours, depending on how booked they are.

Tip: Book your 2-hour slot to coincide with sunset for the prettiest sky colors.

Now for food. Paris is one of the best places in the world for solo diners - you'll see plenty of other women and men dining solo.

I do suggest making a reservation in advance (almost every place offers online reservations now) simply because it's hard to judge which places will fill up quickly. For most places, booking just a day or two in advance is fine.

A very few places will not accept a reservation just for one person, but as far as I'm aware, all of the places I've listed below are fine with just one person - I've dined at probably at least half of them in solo mode myself.

Here are my suggestions for traditional French cuisine:

Boulangerie Moderne - 19 Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques. My long-time favorite bakery in this area, unfortunately now boasting long lines due to Emily in Paris fame - but happily the quality of their patisserie and sandwiches is unchanged.

Creperie Elo - 7 Rue Saint-Antoine - Choose from savory buckwheat crepes and sweet crepes.

La Pie Noir - 5 Rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève - Classic French dishes with a strong Breton influence: Breton-style razor clams (perhaps their biggest claim to fame), bone marrow on toast, steaks, sausage, and sever dessert choices - the creme brulée is always excellent here.

Bouillon Racine - 3 Rue Racine - A gorgeous Art Nouveau interior makes this bouillon-style restaurant feel special from the moment you walk in, and the food is usually quite good - updated French classics. I've been here for both lunch and dinner, and prefer lunch because the servings are a bit smaller and the service is somewhat less formal. They also usually a well-priced formule at noon. You definitely will need a reservation.

Bistro l'Estrapade - 15 Rue de l'Estrapade- Classic bistro fare such as French onion soup, duck terrine, cheese-charcuterie boards (including a 1-person size), beef Bourguignon, a "butchers cut" (which is typically some sort of steak), and veal kidneys,

Bistro des Livres - 44 Rue Galande - A "bistronomique" take on French classics, including escargot, frisée salad with lardons (bacon), a terrine, steak tartare (ie, raw), duck leg confit, fish, and poire belle Hélène, an old fashioned dessert involving a poached pear, ice cream and/or whipped cream, and chocolate sauce that's lately enjoying as small revival in Parisian restaurants.

Café de la Nouvelle Mairie - 19 Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques, open Monday - Friday; no website so stop by (or call +33 1 44 07 04 41) to make a reservation and get an outdoor table for the best people-watching - This small wine cafe near the Pantheon is rightfully known for its long-time support for natural wines but its simple bistro-style French food is also quite good - oysters, eggs mayo, sardines, rabbit terrine, fish, pork, a beef dish, sausage and potatoes, a cheese platter.

Rue Mouffetard - This is an ancient and esteemed market street, which has has its share of takeaway stalls with kebabs, crepes, and other student-budget fare, especially at the Place de la Contrescarpe end. I can recommend only two places to eat plus one coffee shop on Rue Mouffetard.

Flocon, a small bistro at 75 Rue Mouffetard, is quite lovely inside and offers a small menu that changes monthly and features slightly modernized versions of traditional French bistro dishes. You can see a menu online - it's not usually the current one but it gives you an idea about the dishes. I've had some excellent meals here, including as a solo diner one time when they were technically booked up but gave me a spot at the bar when my hotel made a last-minute reservation for me. Tip: Book a few days in advance on their website.

The other spot I like on Rue Mouffetard is Mon Petit Poulet at #107 - it's basically a rotisserie with about a dozen sides. They also have a couple of other locations in Paris; I'm also a big fan of the chicken and veggies at their Rue Cler rotisserie in the 7th arrondissement. In addition to chicken, their Rue Mouffetard counter usually offers pork and smoked pork roasts along with maybe 10-12 different sides. They do a brisk take-out business but also have a few ridiciously cramped tables outside (which is where I always squeeze in) plus a few more crowded inside. You can also do carryout for a picnic or even a dinner in your hotel room; their to-go prices are, if I recall correctly, about half of the dine-on-the-spot cost. Come here during the week to avoid the biggest crowds and improve your chance of getting a table.

After your meal, walk across the street to Graines du Jour, a truly excellent plant-based coffee shop with delicious vegan pastries. They make all of their almond milk on presses in the back of the shop. Although I'm not vegan, this is my favorite place for a café crème in this part of Paris.

Which Bistros in Bastille Serve Traditional French Cuisine?

Lisa's Question:

We arrive in Paris on my birthday, the same day as the Fête de la Musique! We are renting an apartment for 2 weeks to live like a local (although my French is pas mal).

Is there a local bistro with traditional French cuisine (escargot, duck, steak frites) you'd suggest in Bastille?

Susan's Answer:

That's a wonderful time to be in Paris. As you can see from my answer to Cassandra's question about the Fete de la Musique, there's lots going on during the evening of June 21st.

And yes, I have several recommendations related to where to find traditional French cuisine in Bastille. As you probably already know, the Bastille neighborhood is anchored by Place de la Bastille near its western edge, and includes parts of the 4th, 11th, and 12th arrondissements, so my recommendations, which are all close to Place de la Bastille, are in all those districts:

Le Rempart Bastille (15 Rue Saint-Antoine, 4th arr) - Part traditional French (foie gras, frog legs, escargot, steaks, duck confit, burgers, crepes), and part not (poke bowls, pastas) - prices are moderate - this is one of my own "go-to" places in this area.
Brasserie Rosie (53 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 11th) - Also traditional French, but a slightly more modern menu (escargot, eggs mayo, butcher's "cut of the day" steak + frites, fish, duck, chicken) - prices are fairly cheap
Bistrot des Tournelles (6 Rue des Tournelles, 4th) - I'd call their menu "French classics" - foie gras, eggs mayo, plus main courses involving chicken, beef, pork, and lamb, all prepared in traditional ways. They also offer a nice vegetarian option for a first course and main course. It's been awhile since I've been here, but I remember their food as being good. A little pricier than most of the others.
Bofinger (5 Rue de la Bastille, 4th) - Traditional brasserie with with Belle Epoque decor; Alsatian cuisine + French cuisine + seafood. This is one of my favorites. Prices are moderate - unless you order the fancier seafood. Chez Paul (13 Rue de Charonne, 11th) - Very traditional French - foie gras, eggs mayo, duck confit, pot-au-feu, and steaks, but also more really traditional choices such as calf's head and brains. Plus a couple of vegan options. You'll see a mix of "regulars" from the neighborhood, often enjoying the plat du jour, and visitors from around the world splurging on the massive tiered seafood platters.
A la Biche au Bois ("deer in the woods") (45 Avenue Ledru-Rollin, 12th) - Like the others, traditional French but also game in the fall and a couple of more esoteric choices such as veal kidneys on the menu.

So, a lot to choose from in a fairly small area. Have a wonderful birthday celebration and a terrific dinner!

P.S. Just for reference, because definitions can vary, I use "bistro" to mean a smaller place, possibly open only for lunch and dinner, with a smaller menu which may change daily or weekly, and "brasserie" to mean a larger place with continuous service throughout the day and a larger menu, although typically there will also be a few daily specials. Both bistros and brasseries can be either casual or fancy, affordable or pricy, and everything in between.

My recommendations tend to skew toward the casual, affordable end of the spectrum which is where average Parisians typically eat, except perhaps for special occasions.

What are Non-Tourist Restaurants for Classic French Food Cuisine in the 9th Arrondissement?

Jane's Question:

We love French classic cuisine! Can you recommend any non-tourist restaurants in the 9th arrondissement.

Susan's Recommendations:

Sure, I'm happy to suggest a few places.

The 9th is packed with all kinds of wonderful places to eat. You'll find a variety of options on the 9th's two major food streets (as well as nearby streets), Rue des Martyrs and Rue Cadet, which are both popular with the area's local residents. Just stroll around and see what's appealing.

On Rue des Martyrs, I especially like Cafe Marguerite (#28) - I usually order their plat du jour for both the first course and main course; you may want to skip the coffee here, though. For excellent brew, walk up the street to K&B Roasters near the carousel.

On Rue Cadet, my favorite place is the sidewalk cafe (I think it's called Le Cafe) at Hotel Fantasie (#24), although the menu for their fancier restaurant on the top floor also looks great, and their rooftop bar is gorgeous.

Rue Chaptal, a calm and lovely pedestrian-only 2-block stretch near the newly reopened Musee de la Vie Romantic is another good spot to stroll along and choose whatever appeals. L'Annexe is the most traditional French spot. I also like Puce but it's an eclectic mix of international cuisine, although usually with a couple of classic French dishes, such as lentils, perfectly cooked.

One of the most famous classic bistros in the 9th is Le Bon Georges (45 Rue Saint-Georges). Although it serves really, really great quality beef and fish, what it's renowned for is its wine - lots of rare vintages, especially of Burgundies and Bordeaus.

The interesting thing about the menu is that not everything here is super-pricey and you can stop by in the afternoon for just a glass of wine, but you can also spend a hefty sum if you get carried away and order a large steak with one of the pricier bottles.

If you want to come for dinner, make reservations a week or two in advance to get your preferred date/timeslot. At lunch and in the afternoon (and in the winter for all meals), a lot of Parisians or at least locals eat here, but especially for dinner in spring through fall, you should expect more of a mixed group of diners.

Update: Le Bon Georges has recently caught the eyes and cameras of "influencers" - so until the tidal wave of attention from their Instagram posts dies down, expect to compete for a table with a lot of non-locals and consider booking 2-3 weeks in advance.