Traditional French Restaurants in Paris: Where to Eat

For many Paris visitors, eating traditional French food is one of the most highly-anticipated experiences of being here, right up with getting that first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower.

While planning your trip, you may be dreaming about savoring your first bite of garlic-infused escargot, onion soup topped with melted cheese, authentic rich and savory beef bourguignon, or a luscious crème brûlée - ideally in a charming non-touristy bistro where Parisians also eat.

But once you're here, choosing where to go can feel surprisingly complicated, partly because authentic classic fare sometimes feels overshadowed by modern French favorites as well as by the many international cuisines popular throughout the city.

In the Sunday edition of my free Paris Discoveries Newsletter, I answer questions about Paris travel, and readers frequently ask where they can find authentic French bistros and restaurants near the neighborhood where they're staying or places they plan to visit.

This article, part of the Paris Discoveries Q&A Archive, brings together those real reader questions and my answers based on my own experiences dining throughout Paris. You'll find recommendations for classic French bistros and restaurants, suggestions for solo diners, explanations of dishes you may encounter on menus, and practical tips for ordering French food with confidence.

I've lightly edited, expanded, and updated my original answers, and added photos and related resources where useful.

But first, before you start reading the questions and answers in this article about where to find authentic French cuisine, get acquainted with the types of places most likely to serve it:

What Types of Paris Restaurants Serve Traditional French Food?

One of the things you'll quickly notice when you're in Paris is that places to eat aren't just called "cafes" or "restaurants." Instead, you'll also see signs for brasseries, bouillons, bistros, bistrots, and even more variations. Here are the types where you're most likely to find traditional dishes on the menu:

Brasseries - Brasserie literally means "brewery," so you'll typically see a large fully-stocked bar. Brasseries range from relaxed and affordable, typically near a metro station, to pricey white-tablecloth grandes brasseries such as La Coupole and Café de la Rotonde (which despite its official name, defines itself as a brasserie). They typically offer "service continu," meaning that you can stop by for a drink, snack, or meal throughout the day. Most brasseries offer at least some traditional French cuisine and some such as La Rotonde, Grand Colbert, and Bofinger are renowned for it.

Bouillons - Bouillons became popular in the mid-1800s for offering affordable hearty meals with no-frills service to the working class in large spaces, often adorned with lovely Art Nouveau decorations and stained glass. They've enjoyed a new surge of popularity in recent years and are known for their classic French comfort food, fast service, cheap prices, and long lines/long waits to get in (many do not take reservations, except perhaps on Christmas Eve). They almost always offer a wide selection of traditional favorites: eggs mayo, escargots, pâté, onion soup, beef bourguignon, duck confit, and old-fashioned desserts.

Cafés, Bistros, & Restaurants - Whereas seeing "brasserie" or "bouillon" in an establishment's name can give you a hint about the type of food you may find there, "café," "bistro," and "restaurant" in a name can mean anything, foodwise - so check the menu posted near the door or online if you want to target traditional French fare.

Top photo: Le Descartes, (c) Paris Discovery Guide

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Where to Eat Traditional French Food near the Sorbonne as a Solo Diner?

Bouillon Racine in Paris's Latin Quarter

Lee's Question:

I have finally booked my dream trip to Paris for my 50th birthday and I will be staying near the Sorbonne.

Can you please tell me some places where I can eat traditional French food as a solo female traveller?

Susan's Answer:

That sounds like a fabulous way to celebrate your 50th birthday.

Students from the Sorbonne, a couple of highly-selective high schools (Lycée Louis-le-Grand and Lycée Henri IV), and other schools dominate this area, but among all the small cafes with budget-friendly menus featuring mostly Asian, Middle Eastern, and Indian cuisine, there are also some good places offering traditional French fare.

But first, in case you want to toast your birthday with a celebratory drink with or without (sans) alcohol while enjoying iconic skyline views, here are two rooftop terrace/bars near the Sorbonne where you'll feel comfortable as a solo guest (and likely not be the only one) while enjoying the fabulous rooftop views:

Le Toit de la Tour ("The Tower Roof") at 400-year-old Tour d'Argent restaurant - Sweeping views overlooking the Seine River (the restaurant itself does not accept bookings for solo guests but the rooftop terrace does)
Hotel Dame des Arts' Rooftop Bar - Open to the public as well as hotel guests.

You can (and should) reserve your spot a few days or more in advance; both will require your credit card number in order to book and will charge a fee if you're a no-show. Both bars may limit your time on the terrace to two hours, depending on how booked they are.

Tip: Book your 2-hour slot to coincide with sunset for the prettiest sky colors.

Now for food. Paris is one of the best places in the world for solo diners - you'll see plenty of other women and men dining solo.

I do suggest making a reservation in advance (almost every place offers online reservations now) simply because it's hard to judge which places will fill up quickly. For most places, booking just a day or two in advance is fine.

A very few places will not accept a reservation just for one person, but as far as I'm aware, all of the places I've listed below are fine with just one person - I've dined at probably at least half of them in solo mode myself.

Here are my suggestions for traditional French cuisine:

Boulangerie Moderne - 19 Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques. My long-time favorite bakery in this area, unfortunately now boasting long lines due to Emily in Paris fame - but happily the quality of their patisserie and sandwiches is unchanged.

Creperie Elo - 49 Boulevard Saint-Michel - Choose from savory buckwheat crepes and sweet crepes.

La Pie Noir - 5 Rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève - Classic French dishes with a strong Breton influence: Breton-style razor clams (perhaps their biggest claim to fame), bone marrow on toast, steaks, sausage, and several dessert choices - if crème brûlée happens to be on the menu, I recommend it as it's always excellent here.

Bouillon Racine - 3 Rue Racine - A gorgeous Art Nouveau interior makes this bouillon-style restaurant feel special from the moment you walk in, and the food is usually quite good - updated French classics. I've been here for both lunch and dinner, and prefer lunch because the servings are a bit smaller and the service is somewhat less formal. They also usually offer a well-priced formule at noon. You definitely will need a reservation.

Bistrot l'Estrapade - 15 Rue de l'Estrapade - Classic bistro fare such as French onion soup, duck terrine, cheese-charcuterie boards (including a 1-person size), beef Bourguignon, a "butcher's cut" (typically some sort of steak), and veal kidneys.

Bistro des Livres - 44 Rue Galande - A "bistronomique" take on French classics, including escargot, frisée salad with lardons (bacon), a terrine, steak tartare (ie, raw), duck leg confit, fish, and poire belle Hélène, an old-fashioned dessert involving a poached pear, ice cream and/or whipped cream, and chocolate sauce that's lately enjoying a small revival in Parisian restaurants.

Café de la Nouvelle Mairie - 19 Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques, open Monday - Friday; no website so stop by (or call +33 1 44 07 04 41) to make a reservation and get an outdoor table for the best people-watching - This small wine cafe near the Pantheon is rightfully known for its long-time support for natural wines but its simple bistro-style French food is also quite good - oysters, eggs mayo, sardines, rabbit terrine, fish, pork, a beef dish, sausage and potatoes, a cheese platter.

Rue Mouffetard - This is an ancient and esteemed market street, which has its share of takeaway stalls with kebabs, crepes, and other student-budget fare, especially at the Place de la Contrescarpe end. I can recommend two places to eat plus a coffee shop on Rue Mouffetard:

Flocon, a small bistro at 75 Rue Mouffetard, is quite lovely inside and offers a small menu that changes monthly and features slightly modernized versions of traditional French bistro dishes. You can see a menu online - it's not usually the current one but it gives you an idea about the dishes. I've had some excellent meals here, including as a solo diner one time when they were technically booked up but gave me a spot at the bar when my hotel made a last-minute reservation for me. Tip: Book a few days in advance on their website.

The other spot I like on Rue Mouffetard is Mon Petit Poulet at #107 - it's basically a rotisserie with about a dozen sides. They also have a couple of other locations in Paris; I'm also a big fan of the chicken and veggies at their Rue Cler rotisserie in the 7th arrondissement. In addition to chicken, their Rue Mouffetard counter usually offers pork and smoked pork roasts along with maybe 10-12 different sides. They do a brisk take-out business but also have a few ridiculously cramped tables outside (which is where I always squeeze in) plus a few more crowded inside. You can also do carryout for a picnic or even a dinner in your hotel room; their to-go prices are, if I recall correctly, about half of the dine-on-the-spot cost. Come here during the week to avoid the biggest crowds and improve your chance of getting a table.

After your meal, walk across the street to Graines du Jour, a truly excellent plant-based coffee shop with delicious vegan pastries. They make all of their plant-based milk on presses in the back of the shop and its creamy freshness perfectly complements the coffee. This is my favorite place for a café crème in this part of Paris.

What Classic French Dishes Will You Find in Paris Restaurants?

You can expect to see these popular French classics on the menus of many Parisian restaurants, especially in the city's central arrondissements, even if traditional cuisine is not their major focus:

Escargots - Steamed snails with garlic butter

Soupe d'Oignon (onion soup) - Caramelized onion slices in a rich beef broth topped with melted cheese (typically Gruyere or a similar Alpine variety) on top of toasted bread cubes

Foie Gras - A rich mixture made from specially fattened duck or goose livers. I see it less often on menus today than 10–20 years ago, perhaps because its traditional production methods have become increasingly controversial

Pâté en Croûte - A seasoned mixture of chopped meats and perhaps nuts wrapped in a crust, baked, and often encased in aspic; a slice of it is typically served with cornichons (tiny whole pickles) and perhaps a few pickled onions as an entrée (first course/appetizer)

Beef Tartare - Minced raw beef served with seasonings (typically a raw egg yolk, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, shallots, salt, pepper, and parsley, at a minimum) on the side for you to mix into the beef

Beef Bourguignon - A long-simmered beef stew made with red wine (typically from the Burgundy region)

Duck Confit - Duck (usually thighs) that's been slowly cooked for a long period in duck fat, salt, and usually herbs until it's tender and tasty, and then quickly seared to crisp the skin

Crème Brûlée - A baked custard served in shallow dishes; made from heavy cream, egg yolks, vanilla (or other flavorings), and sugar, with additional sugar sprinkled on top and caramelized with a torch right before serving

Hand-cut beef tartare at Bistrot l'Olivier, a gastronomic bistro in the 18th arrondissement near Montmartre; ingredients include the usual seasonings plus a couple of extras and a salad (on the right)

Which Bastille Bistros Serve Traditional French Food?

Art Nouveau decor and stained glass dome at Bofinger

Lisa's Question:

We arrive in Paris on my birthday, the same day as the Fête de la Musique! We are renting an apartment for 2 weeks to live like a local (although my French is pas mal).

Is there a local bistro with traditional French cuisine (escargot, duck, steak frites) you'd suggest in Bastille?

Susan's Answer:

That's a wonderful time to be in Paris. As you can see from my answer to Cassandra's question about the Fete de la Musique, there's lots going on during the evening of June 21st.

And yes, I have several recommendations related to where to find traditional French cuisine in Bastille. As you probably already know, the Bastille neighborhood is anchored by Place de la Bastille near its western edge, and includes parts of the 4th, 11th, and 12th arrondissements, so my recommendations, which are all close to Place de la Bastille, are in all those districts:

Le Rempart Bastille (15 Rue Saint-Antoine, 4th arr) - Part traditional French (foie gras, frog legs, escargot, steaks, duck confit, burgers, crêpes), but with a mix of popular modern dishes (poke bowls, pastas); prices are moderate; this is one of my own "go-to" places in this area.
Brasserie Rosie (53 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 11th) - Also traditional French, but a slightly more modern menu (escargot, eggs mayo, butcher's "cut of the day" steak + frites, fish, duck, chicken) - affordable prices.
Bistrot des Tournelles (6 Rue des Tournelles, 4th) - I'd call their menu "French classics" - foie gras, eggs mayo, plus main courses involving chicken, beef, pork, and lamb, all prepared in traditional ways. They also offer a nice vegetarian option for a first course and main course. It's been awhile since I've been here, but I remember their food as being good. A little pricier than most of the others, and sometimes hard to get a table due to being well-known and much-loved.
Bofinger (5 Rue de la Bastille, 4th) - Traditional brasserie with Belle Époque decor; Alsatian cuisine + French cuisine + seafood. This is one of my long-time favorites. Prices are fairly moderate (unless you order the fancier seafood and some of the other pricier dishes) the servers are always gracious, and the decor is gorgeous. You'll see a mix of "regulars" from the neighborhood, often enjoying the plat du jour (which is what I usually order too), and visitors from around the world splurging on the massive tiered seafood platters.
Chez Paul (13 Rue de Charonne, 11th) - Very traditional French - foie gras, eggs mayo, duck confit, pot-au-feu, and steaks, but also more really traditional choices such as calf's head and brains. Plus a couple of vegan options.
À la Biche au Bois ("deer in the woods") (45 Avenue Ledru-Rollin, 12th) - Like the others, traditional French but also known for its selections of game in the fall as well as a couple of more esoteric choices such as veal kidneys on the menu.

So, a lot to choose from in a fairly small area. Have a wonderful birthday celebration and a terrific dinner!

P.S. Just for reference, because definitions can vary, I use "bistro" to mean a smaller place, possibly open only for lunch and dinner, with a smaller menu which may change daily or weekly, and "brasserie" to mean a larger place with continuous service throughout the day and a larger menu, although typically there will also be a few daily specials. Both bistros and brasseries can be either casual or fancy, affordable or pricey, and everything in between.

Also, my recommendations tend to skew toward the casual, affordable end of the spectrum which is where you also may see Parisians from the neighborhood.

My Best 2 Tips for Ordering French Food in Traditional Paris Restaurants

Here's my #1 best tip, based on a few written-in-French-only menu mishaps including once accidentally ordering lambs' brains in cognac: If you know that you prefer to avoid certain foods or ingredients, learn the words in French before you go.

With no offense intended to traditional French cuisine, for me that means knowing words associated with organ meats/offal (abats) such as brains (cervelle), kidneys (rognon), tongue (langue), stomach (tripe, tripoux, tablier de sapeur), gizzard (gésier), sweetbreads, ie, thymus (ris), and heart (coeur). I'm also not crazy about encountering parts of animals' heads, as in tête de veau (calf's head) or fromage de tête (head "cheese").

But that's not all. I also avoid boudin noir (black sausage, made from blood), salade périgourdine and salade landaise, which often feature chicken (or other poultry) livers and/or gizzards, and l'andouille and l'andouillette (made from pork intestines and other offal).

I'm not a purist about my aversions - I'm fine with pâté (made from liver and probably other things I'd rather not know about) and most other kinds of charcuterie (cured and smoked meats), aside from those that I already mentioned.

Finally, here's my #2 second-best tip: Keep a translation tool such as Google Translate on your phone, and when you're not sure what a word on a French-only menu means, use it.

Where to Find Traditional French Restaurants in the 9th Arrondissement?

Lunch at Café Marguerite on Rue des Martyrs, Paris 9

Jane's Question:

We love French classic cuisine! Can you recommend any non-tourist restaurants in the 9th arrondissement.

Susan's Recommendations:

Sure, I'm happy to suggest a few places, starting with casual and moderately priced, and working up to more expensive options.

The 9th is packed with all kinds of wonderful places to eat. You'll find a variety of options on the 9th's two major food streets (as well as nearby streets), Rue des Martyrs and Rue Cadet, which are both popular with the area's local residents. Just stroll around and see what's appealing.

On Rue des Martyrs, I especially like Café Marguerite (#28) - I usually follow the lead of about half the other diners here on a given day, and order their plat du jour for both the first course and main course. Their menu offers a mix of traditional French favorites and occasional international choices. Desserts are good. I usually skip the coffee and then walk up the street to K&B Roasters across from the carousel for excellent brew and people-watching from their sidewalk terrace.

Another of my favorites in this area is Les Saisons (52 Rue Lamartine), a classic bistro on a side street branching off from Rue des Martyrs. It features seasonal menus with French classics but with many modern touches, plus a very affordable formule at lunch. The à la carte selections in the evening run somewhat pricier (but I wouldn't put them in the "expensive" category) for more complex dishes but they're still quite fairly priced. The vegetarian options for each course are also creative and tasty - not always the case in other places.

Still another of my own traditional French cuisine favorites in this area is Caillebotte (8 Rue Hippolyte Lebas), a small bistro in the same general area. It offers market-focused seasonal menus with updated "bistronomic" methods of cooking (no dependence on heavy fats, but lighter sauces and creative seasonings) but a fairly classic focus.

Lunch at Caillebotte: Smoked pork roulade with seasonal veggies

In my experience, reservations are essential at Caillebotte because this is a popular neighborhood bistro with reasonable prices and only 10-12 tables, depending on how they're configured.

On Rue Cadet, my favorite place is the sidewalk cafe (I think it's called Le Cafe) at Hotel Fantasie (#24), although the menu for their fancier upper-floor restaurant also looks great, and their rooftop bar is gorgeous.

Rue Chaptal, a calm and lovely pedestrian-only 2-block stretch near the newly reopened Musee de la Vie Romantique is another good spot to stroll along and choose whatever appeals. L'Annexe is the most traditional French spot. I also love Puce but it's an eclectic mix of international cuisine, although usually with a couple of classic French dishes, such as lentils, perfectly cooked.

In general, the 9th offers lots of opportunities to spot what I call "neighborhood hidden gems" - small bistros serving excellent food, including traditional French favorites, such as Lorette near the Eglise Notre Dame de Lorette church:

Lorette, on Rue Saint-Lazare near the intersection with Rue Notre Dame de Lorette

A quick look at their menu online shows a number of popular bistro selections - onion soup, escargot, eggs mayo, leeks vinaigrette served warm (I love this old-fashioned dish but it can be hard to find except in bouillons), a croque monsieur (toasted cheese and ham layered on thick-sliced bread), duck, beef tartare with frites or salad.

The daily menu posted by the door shows a very affordable lunch formule:

I haven't had a chance to have a meal here yet (it's on my list for my next trip!), but this type of chance spotting is how I've found some of my favorite places to eat in Paris.

So keep your eyes open as you walk around, and I'm confident you'll have similar good luck!

One of the most famous classic bistros in the 9th is Le Bon Georges (45 Rue Saint-Georges). Although it serves very high-quality beef and fish, its lasting fame is due to its wine - lots of rare vintages, especially of Burgundy and Bordeau.

The interesting thing about the menu is that not everything here is super-pricey and you can stop by in the afternoon for just a glass of wine, although you can also spend a hefty sum if you get carried away and order a large steak with one of the pricier bottles.

If you want to come for dinner, make reservations a week or two in advance to get your preferred date/timeslot. At lunch and in the afternoon (and in the winter for all meals), a lot of Parisians or at least locals eat here, but especially for dinner in spring through fall, you should expect more of a mixed group of diners.

Update: Le Bon Georges has recently caught the eyes and cameras of "influencers" - so until the tidal wave of attention from their Instagram feeds shifts elsewhere, expect to compete for a table with a lot of non-locals and consider booking 2-3 weeks in advance - or maybe even earlier.