When I first visited Paris's Musée du Louvre on a chilly, overcast January morning, food was the last thing on my mind.  I hadn't even thought about where to find cafes or restaurants inside the museum.

Instead, I planned to sprint through the museum, find Leonardo da Vinci's famous Mona Lisa painting, and take a photo to show I'd been there. 

Then, I imagined, I'd spend the rest of the day exploring Montmartre.  I was a 20 year old student, more interested in soaking up Parisian vibes than looking at art.

But once I passed through the museum's entrance and headed toward to the Louvre's Italian Renaissance section, I promptly took a wrong turn.  That's how I first discovered the museum's vast collections of treasures spanning centuries and countries. 

I was hooked.  My "quick" visit turned into a four hour immersion. 

I'd been so dazzled by the Louvre's spectacular Greek and Roman sculptures, medieval stained glass and tapestries, Egyptian mummies, crown jewels, ancient Mesopotamian pottery, and countless masterpieces by da Vinci (the Mona Lisa, it turned out, was the least of them) and other Renaissance artists that food never crossed my mind. 

But when I finally emerged, still slightly stunned from all the amazing art I'd experienced, hunger hit hard, followed by this realization: I had no idea where to eat near the Louvre. 

So I walked across the street, Rue de Rivoli, and headed straight to the first cafe I spotted - Le Nemours, overlooking Place Colette and the canopy of sparkling colored glass framing the entrance to the Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre metro station.

Although Le Nemours' interior looked cozy and appealing, the afternoon sun had burned off the morning clouds, turning the sky blue. 

I claimed an outdoor table where I devoured what tasted like the world's best soup, a croque monsieur, and a steaming cup of hot chocolate while enjoying excellent people-watching.

Since that time, I've discovered many more restaurants, cafes, bistros, wine bars, and brasseries near the Louvre plus a few noteworthy spots to eat inside the museum.

In this article, I'm sharing my favorites, including Le Nemours, with you - and despite the location, no "tourist traps" included.

Aside from a couple of splurge-worthy spots with Eiffel Tower views, most are reasonably budget-friendly, considering their close proximity to this top Paris attraction. 

If you're planning a visit, check them out!

Here's what you'll find:

Top photo:  Terrace seating at LouLou by the Museum of Decorative Arts in a wing of the Louvre, (c) Paris Discovery Guide®

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Need Tickets for Your Visit to the Louvre?

Save time and skip the ticket line by booking your Louvre visit in advance.  Here are 4 popular options:

  • 2-Hour Louvre Museum Guided Tour - My favorite small-group tour - limited to 6 participants, and I learn new things each time I take it.  Plus you get in really fast through the tours-only entrance
  • Skip the Line Ticket & Guided Fast-Path to the Mona Lisa - Just want to see the Mona Lisa?  Save yourself time and hassle - join this tour and let your guide whisk you through the tours-only entrance and the massive crowds to view the famous masterpiece
  • Louvre Museum Timed Entrance Ticket - Get in reasonably fast and explore the museum on your own (in my recent experience, you'll still spend 30+ minutes in line - but that's MUCH better than waiting in line at the museum to buy a ticket)
  • Louvre Museum & Seine Cruise - Get a timed-entry ticket to the Louvre plus a 1-hour Seine River cruise (perfect way to relax after your museum visit)


Two Bistros in the Palais du Louvre with Spectacular Terrace Views

Bakery kiosk near the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel
Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel du Louvre

The Palais du Louvre's north wing includes a couple of upscale restaurants, Cafe Marly and LouLou.  Even though both are located within the Palace, they're not part of the Louvre Museum, so you need to exit the museum in order to access them.

Both offer contemporary bistro-type cuisine, popular outdoor terrace seating as well as elegant indoor dining rooms, and price points well above what you'd pay at other more casual spots nearby, such as those in Tuileries Garden.

But to be clear: what you're paying for is the location, the ambiance, and the experience of lingering over one last drink while gazing at distant views of the Eiffel Tower until the early morning hours. 

To easily find both of these bistros, exit the Louvre through the glass pyramid and walk in the direction of Tuileries Garden and Place de la Concorde.  You'll spot them on your right, immediately before and soon after you pass by the ornate Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel du Louvre.

Le Cafe Marly

Seating inside Cafe Marly
Seating inside Cafe Marly during the Christmas season

Tucked away in the arcades of the Palais du Louvre across from I.M. Pei's iconic glass pyramid, Cafe Marly offers sweeping views from its elevated outdoor terrace and serves up elevated brasserie-type fare.  A long, narrow dining room under an ornate arched ceiling and interior arcades provides a cold-weather alternative.

Although menu choices do include a few casual options such as croque monsieurs/madames, omelets, and cheeseburgers until 6pm, the culinary focus is on upscale bistro-style cuisine.

Three courses plus wine and coffee will probably run you at least €100/person, maybe more.  Aperitifs and/or digestifs will increase your check even more.  Count on a spritz or other cocktail running over 20€. 

Also, do not expect fast service; Cafe Marly caters to clientele who want to linger over a fine dining experience in an iconic spot.

Or (this is what I do) - stop by in the afternoon after your Louvre visit, treat yourself to a croque monsieur and a glass of Champagne, and enjoy the view. 

For dinner and even lunch, reservations are always a good idea, especially during the warmer months and the Christmas/New Year holiday season.

Tip:  If you're dining indoors, the best views are from the tables overlooking the courtyard and Glass Pyramid, not the ones along the wall.

Address:  93 Rue de Rivoli;  Open:  Daily, 8am - 2am

Loulou

Seating inside Cafe Marly
Under one of the white umbrellas on Loulou's outdoor terrace

Located in the Museum of Decorative Arts in the northwestern wing of the Palais du Louvre, Loulou Paris occupies a prime location overlooking the tranquil Jardin du Carrousel garden and in the distance, the Eiffel Tower. 

Although the bistro's chic indoor dining room provides a lovely experience during inclement weather, I personally far prefer the coveted outdoor tables under white umbrellas on the spacious terrace due to the relaxed vibe and spectacular views. 

Unfortunately, not all tables have an umbrella for shade; the unshaded ones can get broiling hot on a summer day, so keep that in mind (and don't forget sunscreen). 

Also, don't make the mistake of expecting a quick, casual dining experience simply because of the outdoor setting. 

Loulou is where to come when you have time for a leisurely meal, perhaps starting with a cocktail (with or without alcohol) plus a couple of courses accompanied by wine and ending with coffee.  The prices on the menu reflect the view, but the food is also quite good.  Count on being here for at least a couple of hours.  Service is leisurely.

Pro tip: Don't come here when you're in a rush.

(If you want a quick snack or a more casual meal or even a greater chance of sitting in the shade on hot days, you'll find better options in Tuileries Garden - more about those in a moment.)

Loulou's Italian and French Mediterranean cuisine offers a high quality bistronomic experience, worthy of being savored at a leisurely pace, especially during the evening dinner service.  I've always loved the food here.

A three-course meal with a glass or two of wine and coffee will easily add up to over €100/person - a bargain, given the quality of the food and the lovely setting, if you have the time and money to spend.  With a cocktail or two, your check will be even higher.  Think of it as the price of your entire evening (or afternoon) while enjoying an iconic view. 

Reservations are always a good idea here, and usually a necessity, as Loulou is popular with Parisians who work in the nearby fashion showrooms or who live in the area.  Despite its location near the Louvre, this is a "destination" restaurant, not just a place to grab a quick bite when you've had your fill of art.

Open:  12 noon-2:30pm, 7pm-11pm, Monday - Sunday
Address: 107 Rue de Rivoli - but enter through the garden for lunch


Casual Cafes & Snack Bars in Tuileries Garden

Jardin des Tuileries in early May
Jardin des Tuileries in early May

After you leave the Louvre and pass the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel du Louvre, you'll soon be in Jardin des Tuileries.  This lovely large park dates back to 1564 when Queen Catherine de Medici, the wife of Henry II, created an Italian-style garden in a space once occupied by tile factories ("tuileries"). 

One hundred years later, the famous landscape architect Andre Le Notre, a favorite of King Louis XIV, redesigned Tuileries in a formal French style.  Although the garden you see today is less formal (and labor-intensive), it retains Le Notre's broad paths, shallow pools, fountains, shady groves of trees, and beautiful flower beds. 

The park opened to the public after the French Revolution and continues to be filled with lush flowers, lots of statues, several shallow pools and fountains, lots of chairs for relaxing, and even a team of goats who keep the grass neatly trimmed.

Modern additions include a children's playground and carousel, a seasonal carnival and very popular Christmas Market, and most important if you leave the Louvre hungry, a bakery kiosk and several informal cafes where you can get snacks or enjoy a casual meal.

Here's what you'll find:

Bakery Kiosk

Bakery kiosk near the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel
Bakery kiosk near Les Jardins du Carrousel (the current bakery is Eric Kayser - I do plan to update this photo soon!)

Almost immediately after you walk past the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel and toward Jardin des Tuileries, you'll spot a bakery kiosk on your right selling freshly made pastries, sandwiches, and coffee.

If you need a quick snack or affordable sandwich for lunch, this is your best choice in the park because it's fast and convenient.  Stroll a bit farther, and you'll find plenty of benches and chairs where you can sit and enjoy your repast.

As you continue walking down the garden's broad central path called the Allée Central, you'll pass one of the larger pools and then soon come to two cafes tucked away under the trees, one on your left and and the other on your right.

Bakery kiosk near the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel
Bakery kiosk near Les Jardins du Carrousel

About 500 feet further along the Allée Central, you'll spot two more, also almost hidden by the trees. 

All of them offer plenty of outdoor tables under awnings and umbrellas, and serve casual fare such as onion soup, escargots, quiche, charcuterie and cheese boards, sandwiches, meal-sized salads, and simple bistro dishes (chicken, beef tartare, pasta, steak, fish) along with coffee, other drinks, and of course wine.

Restaurant seating in Tuileries Garden
Restaurant seating in Tuileries Garden

Although at first glance you may think they're all similar, in fact they each have different owners and offer different menus and emphasize different types of dishes.  In my experience, they're all a good bet when you want casual French food in a lovely setting.  Prices are about the same as what you'd pay at neighborhood brasseries - in other words, in the affordable range.

Since they're all fairly close together, walk around and check the menus to find the selections you like best - or if you're super-hungry, head to the closest one, because you really can't go wrong. 

Three of them, Cafe des Marronniers, Terrasse de Pomone, and Pavillon des Tuileries, have websites where you can see the menus online if you want to check them out ahead of time.

They do get very crowded, especially around mid-day, so if that's the case, pick the one where you can get a table. 

During the busiest periods, service can be slow - although there's also the cultural expectation that you'll enjoy relaxing over your meal and perhaps lingering over a coffee and dessert at the end. 

If you're in a rush, you'll be happier if you head back to the bakery kiosk and grab a sandwich to enjoy while sitting on one of the park's many benches.


You can easily find dozens, maybe even hundreds of places within 2-3 blocks of the Louvre and Tuileries Garden on the Right Bank. 

I've enjoyed meals and drinks at many of them through the years - so I'm going to take you on a quick tour of some of my favorites, starting at Place de la Concorde at the western end of Tuileries and then heading east:

Le Village Restaurant in Le Village Royal near Tuileries Garden & Place de la Concorde

Entrance to Le Village Royal on Rue Royale
Entrance to Le Village Royal from Rue Royale

Le Village Royal (sometimes called Cité Berryer) is a hidden passageway between Rue Royale and Rue Boissy d'Anglas that dates back to 1746.  Today, it's a lovely enclave lined with Dior, Chanel, and other designer boutiques but when you're hungry, the real draw is Le Village Restaurant.

To get there from the Louvre, walk through Jardin des Tuileries, exit at the end next to Place de la Concorde, walk one and a half blocks up Rue Royale, and look for the double-arched entrance sandwiched between Chanel and Dior boutiques. 

Le Village terrace tables on a sunny November afternoon
Le Village terrace tables on a sunny November afternoon

Le Village serves modern bistro cuisine from breakfast through dinner.  Look for dishes such as tomatoes and burrata, tartare de thon (tuna), foie gras, calamari, lobster salad, and grilled steak. 

The plush indoor dining room provides a refuge on rainy days, but otherwise, the appealing terrace is the coveted spot for people-watching and soaking up a bit of sun.

Tip 1:  If your Paris shopping list includes a high-quality French culinary knife, you'll find a Laguiole store almost directly across the street to the right from Le Village Royal's entrance on Rue Boissy d'Anglas.

Tip 2:  If you're here from mid-November through December, perhaps after visiting the Tuileries Marché de Noel, Le Village Royal always has gorgeous holiday decorations.

Address:  25 Rue Royal, 8th arrondissement

Angelina Paris Tea Room

Angelina's tea room on Rue de Rivoli
Angelina's tea room on Rue de Rivoli

As you head east on Rue de Rivoli, you'll quickly spot Angelina, the most famous tea room in Paris - the perfect spot to enjoy tea and a patisserie after your visit to the Louvre. 

With its glamorous Belle Epoque decor, a gracious afternoon high tea service, and legendary fans such as fashion designer Coco Chanel and novelist Marcel Proust, Angelina embodies elegance and (literally) good taste. 

Although best known for its super-thick hot chocolate made from a secret recipe using three types of African cocoa and its Mont-Blanc dessert composed of strands of chestnut cream, crunchy meringue, and whipped cream, Angelina serves a variety of other exquisite pastries, savory treats, and other beverages. 

Getting a table almost always involves a wait, especially during summer months, but Angelina delivers a memorable experience.  They do not take reservations, except for large groups which may be seated upstairs.

Tip #1:  Unless you know that you love the flavor of chestnut, consider ordering one of the other pastries.  Although I'm not a fan of their famous Mont-Blanc, I can highly recommend their tarte au citron (lemon tart). 

Tip #2:  A retail space selling pastries and drinks to go as well as other branded items occupies the front of Angelina's Rue de Rivoli location, and the tea room occupies the back.  There's a separate line for each space - make sure you get in the right one.

Address:  226 Rue de Rivoli, 1st arrondissement

Marché Saint-Honore

Terrace seating at Le Nemours
Some of the restaurants along the Marché Saint-Honoré plaza

As you continue to walk east along the arcades on Rue de Rivoli, you'll pass a couple of unassuming cafes tucked away among the souvenir shops.  They're fine for a quick bite, but tend to be crowded and noisy from the masses of people crowding the sidewalk along this stretch.

For better choices in a secluded spot with a more relaxed vibe, turn onto to Rue du 29 Juillet, which you'll spot about a block and a half past Angelina.  You'll almost immediately begin to see an assortment of small cafes on your right.  This is an old market area called Marché Saint-Honoré. 

In a couple of blocks, you'll come to a large modern-looking building.  Follow the narrow lane around to the right.  Here, you'll see numerous small bistros and restaurants, and even more behind the building.  If you prefer plant-based food, look for Daimant Saint-Honoré at #24, known for its delicious vegan fare. 

You really can't go wrong with any of them - just check out the menus, find the one you like best, and get a table.  Prices are generally reasonable, and the food, although simple, is good-to-excellent quality.  Many of the people eating here work in the area.

Cafe du Louvre

Cafe du Louvre on Avenue de l'Opera
Cafe du Louvre on Avenue de l'Opera

Cafe du Louvre, located on Avenue de l'Opera about a 1-minute walk from Rue de Rivoli, is somehow easy to overlook but is an excellent place to indulge in classic bistro fare and comfort food:  cheese omelets, foie gras, sardines, escargot, big salads, ribeye steak with bernaise sauce, croques monsieurs, burgers. 

It's open every day until 2am and attracts both locals working in the area as well as tourists.  Prices are reasonable, and the wine list is good.  My favorite lunch order here when my feet are tired from too much walking: eggs mayo and onion soup with a glass of Crozes Hermitage.

Rue Sainte-Anne Asian Restaurants

Cafe du Louvre on Avenue de l'Opera
Kunitoraya, Japanese bistro near Rue Sainte-Anne

If you walk two very short blocks past Cafe du Louvre on Avenue de l'Opera, you'll spot Rue Sainte-Anne on your right. 

Rue Saint-Anne has been famous for the past three decades as the Parisian epicenter of affordable and delicious Japanese food. 

In the past 10 or 15 years, the small Japanese bistros along Rue Sainte-Anne (and surrounding streets, all the way up to Rue des Petit Champs)   have been joined by spots featuring the cuisine of other Asian countries. 

For awhile, Thai and Vietnamese cuisine dominated the "other" category, but for the past decade, Korean places have been wildly popular, and right now, Chinese food is trending.

Almost none take reservations, so you can tell what's most popular at the moment based on the length of the line outside.

Here are several of my long-time favorites, although every place I've tried in this area (and because I love Asian food, I've eaten at most of them) has been very good: 

  • La Taverne de Zhao (22 Rue Moliere; plus a few locations in other neighborhoods) - Xi'an style Chinese (hand-pulled noodles, chili oil, Sichuan peppers, vinegar flavors), made in house, less than tables, always packed with fans and almost always a line to get in - but the wait is worth it!
  • Kadoya (28 Rue Sainte-Anne) - Japanese; my favorite spot for a bowl off ramen at the end of a long day
  • On the Bab (18 Rue Therese) - Korean; I love the BBQ stuffed buns, especially in warm weather at a table along their outdoor terrace
  • Kunitoraya (1 Rue Villédo) - Japanese; famous for their udon noodles; I also love the gyoza and tempura
  • Aki Boulangerie - Japanese; I'll typically pick up one of their bento boxes to go and take it to neary Jardin du Palais Royal for a discrete picnic lunch while sitting on a park bench

Brasserie du Louvre

Shaded terrace at Brasserie du Louvre

Shaded terrace at Brasserie du Louvre

Brasserie du Louvre, the onsite restaurant at the 5-star Hotel du Louvre located directly across Rue de Rivoli from the Louvre and near Fondation Cartier, features a tranquil, almost secluded terrace across from the plaza near the Palais Royal - Musee du Louvre metro station - ideal for people-watching.  The indoor seating area exudes the same vibe of relaxed elegance.

The menu leans heavily toward traditional French bistro classics (escargot, foie gras, sole belle-meunière, French onion soup topped with gratinéed cheese, preparations of high-quality fish and meat, and beef tartar) but you'll also find a few modern international favorites such as ceviche and burgers. 

My favorite dinner here involves fish cooked on a plank followed by crêpes Suzette flamed with Grand Marnier for dessert.

Address: 1 Place André Malraux (inside Hotel du Louvre); Open: Daily - breakfast: 7am-10:30am, lunch 12 noon-3pm, snacks 3pm-6pm, dinner 6pm-10:30pm;  Reserve:  Online (although you can usually get a spot without reservations)

Le Nemours

Terrace seating at Le Nemours

Terrace seating at Le Nemours

Le Nemours, a quintessential grand Parisian café set inside Galerie de Nemours (which is part of the covered arcade along Palais Royal next to Comédie Française near the Palais-Royal Garden), offers continuous service and high-quality, reasonably-priced casual fare. 

Look for freshly-prepared French brasserie classics - salads, soups, quiche, sandwiches, and cheese and charcuterie platters.  In the afternoon, relax over a refreshing drink.

When the weather is good, choose a terrace table under the long arcade and watch le monde go by, or head inside to the chic (and air-conditioned) dining room.

After your meal, stroll through the Palais Royal courtyard and garden (the entrance is to the left of Le Nemours).  You'll first pass by the photo-worthy striped Colonnes de Buren (Buren's Columns) and then beyond that, you can relax in the flower-filled gardens.

Le Nemours has held a special place in my heart ever since my first meal here after my first visit to the Louvre - two memorable experiences.

Movie trivia:  Le Nemours served as one of the filming locations for the American romantic thriller "The Tourist," starring Johnny Depp and Angelina Jolie.

Address:  Place de Colette; Open: Monday-Friday 8am-midnight, Saturday 9am-midnight, Sunday 9am-8pm

Le Fumoir

You can find one of the best Paris restaurants near the Louvre, Le Fumoir, directly across the street along the museum's east side, in the same block as the Saint-Germain-l'Auxerrois church. In addition to the restaurant where lunch and dinner are served, there's also a bar, a library where you can borrow a book, an outdoor seating area along the sidewalk, and a separate smoking lounge.

Thanks to its Swedish chef, the bistro's menu features a mix of contemporary French and Scandinavian favorites made with fresh locally-sourced products. 

The vegetarian-friendly menus change weekly.  With breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, dinner, and a Sunday brunch plus a very cool bar with a wonderful wine list, cocktails, and a big selection of fresh-pressed juices on offer, you'll find a lot to love here.

Service during lunch is usually fairly fast, but you should plan to linger over your dinner.

Address: 6 Rue de l'Amiral Coligny; Open: Daily, 9am-midnight; Reserve: Online



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