If you're visiting Paris for a week or more, should you consider splitting your stay between two or more neighborhoods so that you can experience different parts of the city?
In the Sunday edition of my free Paris Discoveries Newsletter, I answer reader questions about Paris travel. Recently, readers have asked whether it makes sense to move from one Parisian neighborhood and hotel to another when time permits.
This article is part of the Paris Discoveries Q&A Archive and brings together my answers based on my own experiences with staying in multiple neighborhoods on longer trips.
You'll find advice about whether splitting your stay is worth doing, how to choose best-for-you neighborhood combinations, hotel suggestions for several popular areas, and.
I've lightly edited, expanded, and updated my original answers, included a few practical tips for making the move from one hotel to another easier, and added photos to make this a more complete Paris travel resource.
What to See & Where to Eat on Île Saint Louis
Lynn's Question:
We're visiting in August, and we love to walk. We're staying at Hyatt Regency Park Etoile. Where are some nearby places to visit - restaurants, history, boutiques, nice spots, etc?
Susan's Answer:
The Hyatt Regency Paris Etoile, as you probably already know, is next to the Palais de Congrès, concert venue, a big exhibition center, and shopping mall almost next to the Périphérique, the multi-lane highway that encircles Paris, and just over half a mile from the Arc de Triomphe. It's at the edge of the posh Ternes neighborhood in the 17th arrondissement.
There are actually quite several large hotels in this area due to the events (particularly the conventions) that take place at Palais de Congrès. Although the area is a bit outside of Paris's touristic center, it's close to a number of interesting places that are easily accessible on foot. Here are five to check out:
- The Arc de Triomphe (at the juncture of the 8th, 17th, and 16th arrondissements) - Napoleon Bonaparte, during the decade when he was Emperor of French in the early 1800s, commissioned this famous monument as a triumphal arch to commemorate his military victory against the Austrians and Russians at the height of what was called the "Napoleonic Wars." Elaborate sculptural details and engravings on the Arc's surfaces commemorate those victories, those who fought in them, and, of course, Napoleon. Today, it's fair to say that the Arc's most popular feature is its rooftop terrace which offers panoramic views of Paris. Twelve avenues intersect with the circular road surrounding it, including the famous Champs-Elysees; south of C-E, especially along Avenue Montaigne, are some of the city's top haute-couture designer showrooms and boutiques.
- Rue Poncelet market street (17th arr) - This is perhaps the best and most gourmet-oriented food market street in Paris - always fun to explore, with plenty of small bistros, wine bars, and cafes tucked in among the food markets. It's located in the 17th arrondissement, and to reach it, walk east along Avenue des Ternes, where it insects with the avenue a block before the Ternes metro station.
- Avenue Foch (16th arr) - Walk its length from the Arc de Triomphe to Porte Dauphine to see some of Paris's most beautiful, expensive, and discreet, almost-hidden mansions, and enjoy the lovely park along its center.
- Fondation Louis Vuitton (16th arr) - Famous for both its archtecture and its twice-a-year exhibitions of modern and contemporary art; its onsite cafe is usually quite good. Next to FLV is the Jardin d'Acclimatation, Paris's only amusement park surrounded by lovely gardens, perfect for strolling - you can enter for free through FLV's back door. Both are in Bois de Boulogne, Paris's second-largest park, which has several lovely lakes, gardens, and lots of trees.
- La Defense - You'll see the tall buildings and an even larger arch, Grande Arche de la Defense, from your hotel - this is Paris's glittering modern business district. To get there, walk west on Avenue de la Grande Armée/Avenue Charles de Gaulle, which becomes an esplanade lined with contemporary and mostly massive sculptures - it's about a mile from your hotel.
Good restaurants near your hotel include Cafe Maillotine, Le Hameau, and Le Paris 17 for French cuisine, Il Grano for Italian, and a bit further away, Le Crabe Marteau, known for its seafood. Also, definitely check out all the small bistros and cafes along and near Rue Poncelet.
What to See & Where to Eat on Île Saint Louis
Laura's question:
Just a quick question on best things to see and do on Île Saint Louis.
Any great spot for lunch that isn't too crowded? Thanks.
Susan's answer:
Ile Saint-Louis, one of the two tiny islands in the Seine River, is mostly residential, but its main street as well as a couple of side streets are lined with small boutiques (fun for browsing) and cafes, creperies, a wonderful cheese store, and bistros. The popular ice-cream shop, Berthillon, is a major attraction and usually easy to spot by the line on fans along the sidewalk in front of it.
Toward the island's eastern end, you'll easily spot the Eglise Saint Louis en l'Ile church (just look for the steeple). It's quite lovely inside, so stop in for a look or get tickets to one of the classical concerts that take place there from time to time.
However, the most famous things to do and see are on Ile de la Cité, the other somewhat larger island that's about a 60-second walk away over a short bridge.
That's where you'll find Paris's important Medieval attractions: Notre Dame Cathedral, Sainte Chapelle, and La Conciergerie along with a number of other interesting sites. Definitely plan to spend some time exploring!
Now for lunch suggestions: although I've never had lunch at L'Orangerie (28 Rue Saint-Louis en l'Ile), I've had dinner with my husband there a couple of times and we loved the food - traditional French with modern touches and a nice vibe. It's family-owned (the chef is one of the owners) and based on what I observed when we were there, it's popular with locals - always a good sign.
Another place I can suggest, based on raves from friends whose taste I trust, is L'Escale (1 Rue des Deux Ponts; right the Pont Tournelle bridge to the Left Bank). It's been around for awhile (like maybe a century or more) but now has a new owner and new chef.
Otherwise, there are a number of other small cafes and bistros, plus several creperies. A couple of picturesque brasseries at the end of the island overlooking Notre Dame offer fantastic views but, in my experience, are better for coffee or drinks than food.
My "Rule of Thumb" for Splitting a Paris Stay Between Neighborhoods & Hotels
Because changing neighborhoods always takes me a minimum of about 3 hours between packing, checking out of the hotel, getting to the new location, checking into the new hotel, and unpacking, I typically don't split my stay when my total time in Paris is 8 days or less because I'm unwilling to give up those 3 hours that I could spend enjoying the city.
On the other hand, there are also times when I book a trip close to the last minute, which makes finding hotel availability in the location I want for more than a few days in a row can be challenging. In those cases, I try to find reservations that give me at least three nights in one place.
Is Montmartre a Good Neighborhood for a Stay? What Can We See Nearby?
Cathy's Question:
My husband and I, and our adult daughter will be in Paris celebrating our 50th anniversary for eight days in mid-April!! We are staying at Appartement Cozy Paris in Montmartre. Is this good place to be? What can we see around us?
Susan's Answer:
Montmartre is indeed a wonderful place to stay.
I spent the first 8 days of my most recent trip there, and even though I've stayed there a few times before, it never loses its magic! The neighborhood is filled with winding lanes, small cafes and coffee shops, quirky sights, and overall, a relaxed, village-like vibe.
Montmartre's most famous site is Sacre Coeur Basilica, which is high up on a hill where you can enjoy sweeping views of the city. Although most people just go for the views, I highly recommend going inside, which is stunning - especially the beautiful mosaic ceiling in the dome.
You can also find more suggestions in my article on things to do in each of Paris's 20 arrondissements. Montmartre is in the 18th arrondissement, so take a look at those suggestions, and also nearby districts, especially the 9th and 17th, and also the 2nd and 1st, which are also easily accessible.
I love walking around Montmartre and exploring the Rue des Abbesses food street, trying the lastest coffee shops, and discovering the neighborhood's quirky and fascinating sights. The food tasting walking tours in Montmartre provide a fun starting point for getting acquainted with the neighborhood, so you might want to consider joining one - this one is perhaps the most popular.
I also recommend putting your daughter in charge of coming up with a list of suggestions for things to do which you can then choose from. As the mom of two daughters, I feel sure that she will come up with fun ideas that you might not think of yourself.
What Are the Main Attractions Plus Good Places to Eat in Paris's 2nd Arrondissement?
Bruce's Question:
I'll be traveling to Paris in May and staying in the 2nd Arrondissement. What are the main attractions in the 2nd? Any recommendations to see and eat?
Susan's Answer:
Paris's 2nd arrondissement is a wonderful area - even though it's the city's smallest district, it packs in a lot of different attractions, including one of the city's best food streets, some fascinating covered passages, and arguably the best (and for sure the most popular) Asian restaurants in Paris.
For both attractions and suggestions about where to eat, check out my article about the 2nd on Paris Discovery Guide.
I was in the 2nd a number of times on my most recent visit, so I updated the food recommendations in the article a couple of days ago. I've also stayed a few times in the 2nd myself, most recently in the Passage du Caire/Rue de Nil area, and one of my favorite things to do is just walk around and explore.
The 2nd arrondissement is sandwiched between the 1st and the 9th arrondissements, so you may want to check out things to do and places to eat there as well. Both districts are only a 5-6 minute walk from almost anywhere in the 2nd, and they have a greater number of top attractions.
How to Choose Your Own Paris Neighborhood Combination
Are you interested in splitting your Paris stay between two or more neighborhoods in order to get a broader sense of the city, but wondering which ones to choose?
One approach is to start with your interests, and combine neighborhoods where you'll a variety of experiences linked by a common theme.
For example:
- For museums: Louvre/Les Halles + Marais + 7th arrondissement + Trocadéro (16th)
- For art galleries: Upper Marais (3rd arr) + Saint-Germain + 7th arr
- For a village vibe: Montmartre + Latin Quarter + Batignolles (17th arr) + Passy (16th)
- For a trendier/contemporary vibe: Oberkampf (11th) + Canal Saint-Martin (10th)
- For a medieval vibe: Latin Quarter + Marais
- For food markets/cafés/shopping: Upper Marais + Sentier (2nd) + Saint-Germain + Ternes (8th)/Batignolles
Practical Tips for Changing Hotels during a Paris Visit
My visits to Paris usually last anywhere between about a week and slightly more than a month, so that means that except for the very shortest trips of 7-8 days, I almost always split my trips between at least two neighborhoods.
Here are some practical tips that I've learned that may help you:
Tip 1: Don't Change Hotels Too Often
Changing neighborhoods always takes me at least 3 hours, due to the process: packing, checking out of my hotel, getting to the next hotel, checking in, and unpacking. If I'm in Paris, you can be sure I'd rather be spending those 3+ hours enjoying the city vs the process that I just described.
So for that reason alone, I try to spend at least 4 days, and ideally longer, between moves - especially since that's also the minimum amount of time, at least for me, to feel fully immersed and "at home" in a new neighborhood.
My ideal time per neighborhood is 5-6 days, or even longer.
Keep in mind: changing hotels can actually save you time if you plan to visit attractions in different parts of the city, as long as you plan your itinerary based on where you're staying.
Tip 2: Be an Organized Packer
I swear by packing cubes to keep my things tidy and organized. This shaves time off of packing and unpacking. I use this packing cube set, which I've had for several years - they're cheap, and 6-piece set is sufficient for what I bring. Needless to say - pack light!
Tip 3: Choose the Easiest Way to Get to Your Next Hotel
Unless my next hotel is very close to the one I'm leaving (which has only happened once, when I moved from a Latin Quarter hotel to one on Ile Saint-Louis), I don't usually walk because the prevalence of cobblestone streets in some areas makes rolling a suitcase dicey.
And I don't take the metro (although I'm on it daily for other destinations) because navigating the numerous stairs isn't easy with a bag (plus I always have an additional bag for my laptop).
Ubers are the easiest, and usually arrive within a minute or two - so that's what I use.
Tip 4: Drop-Off Your Luggage Before Check-In
Since check out time for Paris hotels is typically 11am and check-in typically isn't until 3pm, I plan an activity such as lunch or perhaps a museum visit near the hotel I'll be checking into.
When I leave my current hotel, I take my bags with me when I check out (vs having the hotel hold them for a few hours) and head immediately to the next hotel, where I ask the hotel to keep my bag until check-in time.
Then, bag-free, I go enjoy the planned activity until check-in time, or even later.
See Questions & Answers on Similar Topics
Wondering about specific neighborhoods for your Paris visit? You'll find those Q&A archives here:
- Where to Stay in the Marais (placeholder: add links later)
- Where to Stay in Saint-Germain (placeholder: add links later)
Paris Neighborhoods & Hotels - Where to stay in Paris + choosing the right hotel
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