Where to Eat on Christmas Eve & Christmas Day in Paris
 

If you're visiting Paris during the Christmas holidays, you may be wondering if restaurants will be open for dinner on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, what types of classic French food may be on the menu, and other options for enjoying a meal on these special days. 

In the Sunday edition of my free Paris Discoveries Newsletter, I answer reader questions about ...   Recently, readers have asked ...

This article is part of the Paris Discoveries Questions & Answers Archive and brings together my recommendations based on my own experience with being in Paris for the Christmas holidays.   

You'll find advice about the types of food to expect on these special days, why only a limited number restaurants in central Paris will be open, a variety of options for dinner on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, traditional French food that hotel suggestions for several popular areas, and etc (see what else should be listed here based on questions).

I've lightly edited, expanded, and updated my original answers... etc.

Top photo:  Christmas lights on the Champs-Élysées near the Arc de Triomphe, (c) Paris Discovery Guide

Paris Discovery Guide is a reader-supported publication.  If you purchase through our links, PDG may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.  Merci for your support!

Where Can We Eat on Christmas Eve & Day?

The Christmas and New Year holidays ranks high as one of the most popular times of the year to be in Paris.  Sparkling lights, lavishly creative holiday window displays at the city's big department stores, and the always-popular Christmas markets provide entertainment and beauty across the city. 

But particularly on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, meals can be a bit of a challenge unless you plan ahead, and there are always questions about where to find open restaurants, how early to reserve, and what to expect, such as these from the Paris Discoveries Q&A archives:

Linda's Question:  We will be in Paris on Christmas Eve & Day, staying near Champs Elysees.  Will we have a problem finding restaurants open?

David's Question:  My wife and I have always wanted to spend the holiday season in Europe and we are finally getting to do it!  We are headed to Paris for the Christmas week, staying at a VRBO in the Marais, and this is our first extended stay in the 4th.  We are looking for a not-too-fancy restaurant for Christmas dinner near the apartment in the Upper Marais open on Christmas day.  Can you make any recommendations?  How soon should we make a reservation?  Is there a classic French Christmas dinner menu we should know about? 

Beth's Question: l'm travelling with 5 others from Australia.  Arriving in Paris on the 22nd December and leaving 27th. I have booked a Christmas Eve Dinner cruise down the Seine River.  And was wondering what we could do for Christmas Lunch or Dinner?

Pamela's Question: We are coming to Paris for Christmas.  Do you know of restaurants that are open on Christmas day?

Susan's Answer to Linda, David, Beth, and Pamela: 

If you're staying in central Paris (arrondissements 1-9), some restaurants near you will be open - but you'll definitely want to plan ahead for both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, and you should consider making reservations as much as a week or more in advance.

Here's why:  Parisians (as well as people through the rest of France and other French-influenced cultures) celebrate Christmas Eve at home with a lavish family-and-friends feast known as Réveillon. 

Traditionally, Réveillon started after midnight mass at the local parish church and continued until around 5 in the morning.  Today, a lot of people skip the mass and start the dinner earlier - but the celebration may still continue until well past midnight. 

A typical Réveillon dinner involves many courses - typically, seven or more, starting with Champagne and spectacular platters of seafood: scallops, oysters, salmon, langoustines, shrimp, and caviar.  Small bowls of soup may be served.  More platters filled with slices of foie gras, small triangles of toast, and fruit-based condiments will also be passed around.

Main courses usually feature a roasted fowl - goose, duck, or even a turkey surrounded by chestnuts, as well as beef or pork accompanied by a potato dish such as gratin dauphinoise, and perhaps green beans, followed by a simple green salad and another platter filled with a variety of cheeses.  Needless to say, wine pairings for each course continue to flow.

Finally, after a number of hours have passed, the meal's pièce de résistance appears:  a fancy cake known as Buche de Noël, which means "Christmas log" and yes, it's shaped to more or less resemble one.  Dinner concludes with cognac, other digestifs, and of course, more Champagne.

Although the food and beverages are indeed spectacular (I've been fortunate enough to experience a few of them), what makes it truly special are the hours of conversation, comraderie, and laughter.

Some neighborhood restaurants privatize for this occasion for Parisians who prefer not to do the prep and cooking themselves.  Other restaurants, especially those in hotels, will serve Christmas Eve dinner to the public.  Many close so that the staff can enjoy Réveillon at home with their families.

Most restaurants that do serve Christmas Eve or Christmas dinners to the public offer a set menu that's fancier than their usual fare, and require reservations and possibly a deposit in advance to discourage no-shows.  These are typically not inexpensive meals, especially if even a subset of the traditional dishes are involved.  In fact, most menus are prix-fixe (fixed price).  With wine, you can expect to pay hundreds of euros or more per person.

Fortunately, there are some less expensive alternatives.  And in parts of the city such as the 13th arrondissement and Belleville where many Asian and other ethnic restaurants outside of the Réveillon tradition are located, you can also enjoy regular, non-holiday meals as usual.

Not surprisingly, after the Réveillon festivities conclude during the early morning hours of Christmas Day. no one feels like cooking, eating, or even getting out of bed, so even more restaurants will be closed.  But again, don't worry - some places will be open. 

For more specific details about what's open and how to make reservations, check out this article, Paris Restaurants Open on Christmas Eve & Christmas Day, where you'll also find tips about putting together your own meals.  I update the article each year as soon as restaurants start announcing their Christmas menus and prices - usually sometime around or before December 1st.

All of the restaurants featured in the article serve classic French cuisine on these traditional holidays.

---

See Questions & Answers on Similar Topics

Have more questions about spending Christmas or New Year in Paris?  You'll find those Q&A archives here:

• How to Plan Your Paris Christmas Market Visits
• How to Enjoy Christmas & New Year in Paris

Paris Discoveries Q&A Archive - See Q&As on all topics

Paris Discovery Guide is a reader-supported publication.  If you purchase through our links, PDG may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.  Merci for your support!

---