Where to Eat in Saint-Germain: Local Restaurant Recommendations

If you're visiting Paris for a week or more, should you consider splitting your stay between two or more neighborhoods so that you can experience different parts of the city?

In the Sunday edition of my free Paris Discoveries Newsletter, I answer reader questions about Paris travel.  Recently, several readers have asked whether it makes sense to move from one Parisian neighborhood and hotel to another when time permits.

This article is part of the Paris Discoveries Q&A Archive and brings together my answers based on my own experiences with staying in multiple neighborhoods on longer trips.  

You'll find advice about whether splitting your stay is worth doing, how to choose neighborhood combinations, hotel suggestions for several popular areas, and practical tips for making the move from one hotel to another easier. 

I've lightly edited, expanded, and updated my original answers, and added photos to make this a more complete Paris travel resource. 

Top photo:  View of Paris rooftops & Eiffel Tower from La Fondation's rooftop bar, (c) Paris Discovery Guide

Paris Discovery Guide is a reader-supported publication.  If you purchase through our links, PDG may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.  Merci for your support!

What Restaurants Do You Recommend near Luxembourg Garden?

Gail's Question:

Our hotel, the Esprit Saint Germain, is near Luxembourg Garden. I am looking forward to strolling through the grounds.

I was wondering if you had any restaurant recommendations that are near there?

Susan's Answer: 

Hi Gail, I do have recommendations, based on staying in this wonderful area recently as well as during a number of previous visits.

Here are my suggestions for places nearby (some between your hotel and the garden, and some between your hotel and the Seine), in no particular article:

Marché Saint-Germain - This is about a block from your hotel (and between your hotel and the garden) and the food market area within it is along Rue Lobineau, the side closest to you. This covered market and the 112 stone arcades lining all four sides date back to the 16th century but the interior is all new, thanks to a recent renovation that also turned most of the interior space into retail areas, including a big Apple store. But the food area is still as good as ever - a mix of cheese, produce, meat, etc vendors and small carryout (traiteur) counters and bistros. My favorite is the one with Lebanese food (Jood Artisan Traiteur Libanais), near one of the corners. The market is closed on Mondays and Sunday afternoons.

Le Paris Paris - on Rue Clement on the north side of the market. Small bistro with about 10-12 tables. Like most of the other small bistros around the market (check them all out), they source their daily ingredients from the market - very fresh, very good. I've eaten here a number of times through the years, usually ordering fish which is always simply but perfectly cooked.  For dessert, though, is not their strong point - so order ice cream or sorbet if you want something sweet.

Rue de Buci - This used to be a major market street and now its mostly pedestrian-only - lots of terrace seating, and massive crowds, especially in warmer months. I mostly avoid it - it's more about the vibe than the food quality. The one place that I love, though, is Paul, a bakery with a lovely tea room with sandwiches, salads, and other casual food - always very good, and the tea room is a perfect refuge on a rainy day. Carryout from the bakery is good too.

Les Deux Magots, Cafe de Flore, Brasserie Lipp - This trio of legendary "literary" cafes cluster within a block of each other on Blvd Saint Germain and owe their fame to the artists, philosophers, and writers such as Ernest Hemingway, Jean-Paul Sartre, Albert Camus, and Pablo Picasso who hung out between the two world wars. Their food is fine, but prices are high and lines to get in are long.

Bouillon Racine on Rue Racine - Lovely interior, and bistro type food - reservations needed. Probably a 7-8 minute walk from your hotel.

Breizh Cafe Odeon - part of a small local chain - my go-to for galettes (savory buckwheat crepes) and crepes (white flour, sweet) in Paris

In nearby Cour du Commerce Saint Andre, I recommend La Jacobine (French cuisine), Pub Saint Germain (casual bar food - burgers, etc), and Le Procope.

Le Jardin Saint Germain - Very good French bistro food - a couple of blocks from your hotel. Make reservations.

Where to Eat in Saint-Germain?

Alison's Question:

My husband and I are visiting Paris in August, and we are spending our first week at the Citadines Saint-Germain-des-Pres.  We have never stayed in the Saint Germain area before and would love some recommendations for restaurants where the locals eat.  

Susan's Answer:

Many Parisians leave the city during August for their summer vacations, but at least in off-season, here are several more restaurants in and near Saint-Germain that are popular with Parisians:

• Bistro des Augustins, about a block east of Citadines across from the river
• La Dauphine, a solid neighborhood bistro with traditional classics (burgers, steaks, escargot, eggs mayo, onion soup) on the west end of Blvd Saint-Germain, maybe a block past Musée d'Orsay
• Three places near the Cluny Museum (on the western end of the Latin Quarter, about a 10-minute walk from your hotel): La Bobine (traditional French) on Rue des Ecoles, Le Bistro du Perigord (somewhat updated traditional French) on Rue Saint Jacques, and Maison Cluny on Rue de Cluny (what I would call modern French cuisine, with a nod toward the Mediterranean)
• The indoor tea room at Paul's bakery on the corner of Rue de Seine/Rue de Buci (once a market street, Rue de Buci is now lined with restaurants that even in winter are tourist magnets, and in summer it's usually so packed that walking down it is a challenge; other than Paul's tea room, Parisians are usually nowhere to be seen here
• Across the Pont Neuf Bridge (almost next to Citadines) in Place Dauphine on Ile de la Cite, Restaurant Paul and Le Bar du Caveau (they share a kitchen, although their menus are slightly different) are popular at lunch time with Parisians who work at the nearby Palais de Justice, and you'll also see some Parisians even at night; of the two, Restaurant Paul is my slight favorite, but both are good
• The small cafes around Marché Saint-Germain, especially to the west (Rue Princesse, Rue Guisarde) and north.   Most of them source their ingredients at the market, and their food is always fresh and good. My long-time favorite is Le Paris Paris (Rue de Montfaucon) - the food is simple but well-prepared (I would, however, avoid the desserts).
• Cour du Commerce Saint-André - A wonderful partially-covered passage with several very good places to eat - recommendation are in the article

Have a wonderful time!  Wishing you enjoyable and memorable meals during your stay in Paris's Saint-Germain neighborhood.

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See Questions & Answers on Similar Topics

Wondering about specific neighborhoods for your Paris visit?  You'll find those Q&A archives here:

• Where to Stay in the Marais (placeholder: add links later)
• Where to Stay in Saint-Germain (placeholder: add links later)

Paris Neighborhoods & Hotels - Where to stay in Paris + choosing the right hotel

Paris Discoveries Q&A Archive - See Q&As on all topics

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