Paris Food Markets ∧ Market Streets: Where to Shop

Intro...

In the Sunday edition of my free Paris Discoveries Newsletter, I answer reader questions about Paris travel. Recently, readers have asked whether it makes sense to move from one Parisian neighborhood and hotel to another when time permits.

This article is part of the Paris Discoveries Q&A Archive and brings together my answers based on my own experiences with staying in multiple neighborhoods on longer trips.

You'll find advice about...

I've lightly edited, expanded, and updated my original answers, included a few practical tips for making the move from one hotel to another easier, and added photos to make this a more complete Paris travel resource.

Top photo: View of Paris rooftops & Eiffel Tower from La Fondation's rooftop bar, (c) Paris Discovery Guide

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Where to Eat in Saint-Germain?

Canal Saint-Martin, in Paris's 10th arrondissement

Alison's Question:

My husband and I are visiting Paris this August. This will be our fourth trip to the beautiful city in the past 20 years so we're very excited to be coming again.

We are spending our first week at the Citadines Saint-Germain-des-Pres. Since we are staying in an apartment style hotel, any recommendations for our daily grocery needs would be appreciated.

Susan's Answer:

Hi Alison, The Citadines Saint-Germain is about a 5-10 minute walk from one of the best traditional markets in Paris, the Marché Couvert Saint-Germain.

The market dates back to at least the early 1500s, and probably existed before that, and used to have around 300 vendors but the number had greatly diminished when it was renovated a decade-plus ago. When it finally reopened in 1917, international brands like Apple and Uniqlo had replaced the market stalls on the side along Rue Clement - if you see it from this side, you'd never guess that there's still a food market there.

But at the back, along Rue Lobineau, there's still a quite vast food market area where you can find some of the freshest produce in the city, wonderful cheeses, meats, fish, etc. And as a bonus, at least a half-dozen carryout places offer small seating areas near their counters if you want to enjoy lunch on the spot.

Wonderful markets similar to Marché Couvert Saint-Germain, as well as the farmers' markets that pop up 2-3 times per week, can be found all over the city - but you're lucky to be close to one of the best of the best.

Slightly closer to your hotel on Rue de Seine, there's a very good product store called Potager City (potager means vegetable garden), and there's also a large Carrefour market almost directly across the street if you need basics such as aluminum foil (in fairness, their produce is fine - it's just not as good as what's on offer at Marché Couvert Saint-Germain).

You'll also find a couple of good bakeries on Rue de Buci, which intersects Rue de Seine, including Paul's. Both offer freshly-made sandwiches, quiche, and salads in addition to a variety of breads and simple tarts and patisseries.

Where Are Good Food Shops & Cafes in the Latin Quarter?

Ellen's Question:

I will be in Paris for the month of September. I've rented an apartment on Rue Monge near metro Maubert Mutualite. It's been many years since I was in Paris last so can you recommend a place to shop for necessities for the apartment - food, etc? Also, any cafés close by that you recommend?

Susan's Recommendations:

Sure, I'm happy to suggest a few places to shop and eat.

To shop for necessities such as paper towels, toilet paper, olive oil, vinegar, milk, butter, and seasonings, I'd go to the nearest Franprix. Depending on exactly where your apartment is in relation to the Maubert metro station, the closest will be at 14 Rue Lagrange, 2 Rue Domat, or possible 28 Rue de la Montagne Sainte Geneviève.

But for anything else, in that location you're literally in the epicenter of some of the best markets in Paris, including the Fromagerie Laurent Dubois-Maubert cheese store, a wonderful charcuterie, a wine store, and an excellent produce store, all in the little plaza next to the station. An award-winning bakery, Maison d'Isabelle, famous for its highly glazed croissants, is also located in the same plaza - you can easily spot its location by looking for a long line outside a door (fortunately it moves quickly).

Plus, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, the Marché Maubert farmers' market sets up next to the station, which is the best place to buy the freshest fruits and veggies, plus the cheese and fish vendors are also quite good. If you want to make a delicious and super-easy dessert, buy some berries or other fruits that look good, and pile them on top of a meringue from Aux Merveilleux de Fred at the corner of Rue Monge and Boul' Saint-Germain.

If Marché Maubert's days don't work for you, an even larger market, Marché Monge, is located farther up on Rue Monge and takes place on Wednesday and Friday, and expands even more on Sunday when you can also choose from a wide range of prepared foods. There are also numerous excellent butchers, bakeries, produce stores, coffee shops, and a wealth of other shops along Rue Monge, as well as a small Carrefour City supermarket.

Nearby, Rue Mouffetard is this neighborhood's go-to market street for anything else you need, plus there's lots of carryout food available, including the chicken, veggies, and Greek salad at the Mon Petit Poulet rotisserie. You can also eat onsite - the outdoor tables are my favorite for people-watching.

On Rue Lagrange, there's a good Viet market and on the other side of the intersection on Rue Monge, good Japanese and Chinese markets. I've stayed near this neighborhood a couple of times in recent years, and honestly, if I were there for an entire month, I'd become so accustomed to having all these wonderful food choices that I'd never want to leave.

There are several cafes in this area that I especially like, and all are by the river on Quai de Montebello: A Lacroix (bakery/cafe, with nice outdoor seating), Aux Arts Etc, a sort of coffee shop/cafe/art gallery combo, and Cafe Panis, where honestly the food is nothing special but the views of Notre Dame are fantastic. On the other side of Square René Viviani, the food at Shakespeare & Company's cafe is surprisingly good, if you can ever find a table.

What Are the Best Gourmet Food Markets When You Want to Prepare a Special Dinner?

Les Halles neighborhood, with Saint Eustache Church and cafe seating at Forum des Halles on the right — Fancy mushrooms at La Grande Epicerie next to Bon Marché in the 7th arrondissement

Amber's Question:

My husband and I are visiting Paris from December 26th to January 2nd with another couple. We are planning to attend Christmas markets and prepare dinner in our AirBNB on New Year's Day.

What are your suggestions for food markets to purchase delicious food to prepare in rather than dining out?

Susan's Suggestions:

That sounds like a fantastic trip. Many Christmas markets, including the biggest, will still be in place during this period, including the one in Tuileries Garden with the gigantic Ferris wheel.

For dinner, my suggestion is to head to La Grande Epicerie, famous for their gourmet and specialty foods (there's one on the Left Bank next to Bon Marché department store and one on the Right Bank in the Passy neighborhood) a few days before New Year's to scout out options and plan your basic menu.

In their prepared foods area, they typically have things like whole roasted duck, goose, chicken, plus gorgeous cuts of beef, lamb, etc, as well as prepared vegetable dishes that you can simply heat and serve - stop by a day or two in advance to pick up your selections.

They also have excellent foie gras, pates, cheeses, etc. - although you can easily buy these in a neighborhood fromagerie or bucherie as well. I would probably also buy some grapes or other fruit to go with the cheese. (Now I'm getting very hungry as I write.)

I did a meal like that for Christmas one year when my whole family was in Paris and we still talk about how good it was. Plus my daughter went to Monoprix and bought a huge quantity of fancy mushrooms and garlic that she cooked - best mushrooms ever!

Picard, which has excellent flash-frozen food, is another good option, especially for appetizers.

For dessert, find the fanciest patisserie in your neighborhood and order (or simply go in the day before and buy) whatever you want for dessert plus perhaps a baguette or two to go with the foie gras and cheese.

Stop by a neighborhood wine store and either pick up your favorites or tell them what you're serving and they'll choose a great match. And don't forget the Champagne!

Tip: Check the glassware in your apartment to verify that it includes some good Champagne glasses. If not, consider buying some - the perfect souvenir from your trip.

How to Choose Your Own Paris Neighborhood Combination

Are you interested in splitting your Paris stay between two or more neighborhoods in order to get a broader sense of the city, but wondering which ones to choose?

One approach is to start with your interests, and combine neighborhoods where you'll a variety of experiences linked by a common theme.

For example:

For museums: Louvre/Les Halles + Marais + 7th arrondissement + Trocadéro (16th)
For art galleries: Upper Marais (3rd arr) + Saint-Germain + 7th arr
For a village vibe: Montmartre + Latin Quarter + Batignolles (17th arr) + Passy (16th)
For a trendier/contemporary vibe: Oberkampf (11th) + Canal Saint-Martin (10th)
For a medieval vibe: Latin Quarter + Marais
For food markets/cafés/shopping: Upper Marais + Sentier (2nd) + Saint-Germain + Ternes (8th)/Batignolles