Today, the Oberkampf neighborhood in Paris's 11th arrondissement is where you'll find the city's buzziest culinary, food, and beverage scene plus the biggest and best farmers' market, eclectic street art, appealing indie boutiques and vintage shops (and arguably, the city's best concept store), and lively nightlife.
Oberkampf once reigned as the Parisian epicenter of small factories, foundries, tanneries, and artisan workshops as well as the home of workers who toiled in them. The district became known for its woodworking crafts, furniture makers, and carpenters as early as the 15th century. By the 1800s, factories had moved in, including one where France's famous toile de Jouy fabric, a favorite of decorators, originated. The neighborhood is named after its owner, Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf.
Eventually, much of the neighborhood's industrial base shut down and not much happened here until the 1990s, when a few intrepid chefs opened cafes and bistros here, lured by cheap rents - and quickly followed by new wave of creators, artists, musicians, and hipsters in search of cheap rent.
My own explorations of Oberkampf coincidentally began not long after that when I spotted impasses and cours (the French words for dead-end passages and courtyards) on a map and hopped on the metro to the 11th to explore them.
Similar to just about everywhere else in Paris, Oberkampf has layers and layers of history, especially around Place de la Bastille where you can see in the cobblestones the outline of the notorious prison stormed by a revolutionary crowd on July 14, 1789, and demolished a few months later - an event commemorated each year as the Fête Nationale du 14 Juillet, also Bastille Day in English.
But the biggest thing I discovered on my first day of walking around the neighborhood was a transition in the making, along with a sizeable number of cranes, a steady hum of renovations, and occasional piles of rubble.
The impasses and cours, I learned, had been the heart of the old 18th and 19th century industrial district, and on that first day of exploration, I could see that photography studies, design shops, and small tech firms had already started moving in.
While the neighborhood has undeniably experienced a fair amount of gentrification since its days as primarily a blue-collar workers' district, you can still find numerous almost-hidden lanes paved with cobblestones, such as Cour Damoye, now lined with galleries, a coffee roaster, and enough wisteria to create a purple haze every April.
Oberkampf also boasts an expanding number of excellent boutique hotels with significantly lower rates than you'll find next door in Le Marais. If you're looking for an area to stay in Paris with a lively vibe, excellent places to eat, trendy coffee shops, arty boutiques, and plenty of metro stations for reaching other parts of the city, you'll find a lot to love here.
Here's what you'll find in this article:
Where to Eat, Drink, and Get Caffeinated + Oberkampf Nightlife
Top photo: Canal Saint-Martin in Paris's 10th arrondissement, (c) Paris Discovery Guide®
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Oberkampf Location & Map
Oberkampf occupies much of the 11th arrondissement and is located in East Paris on the Right Bank. The above map shows Paris's 11th arrondissement outlined in purple, located to the east of the Marais neighborhood (3rd and 4th arrondissements), and below the also-trendy Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood in the 10th arrondissement.
As you can see on the map, the 11th borders the Belleville, Menilmontant, and Amandiers neighborhoods in the 20th and shares a border with the famous Pere Lachaise Cemetery, known for its funerary art and naturalistic setting. On its southern edge, the 11th shares a border with the 12th arrondissement, and abuts the Marais at Place de la Bastille - another famous square due to its connections with the French Revolution.
Although, I've outlined the "official" Oberkamp neighborhod in orange on the map, in reality, as the neighborhood has grown in popularity and trendiness during recent decades, it's increasingly common to hear entire 11th arrondissement referred to as Oberkampf.
How to Get to Oberkampf
You can easily reach Oberkampf by metro. Multiple lines converge at both the République (Lines 3, 5, 8) and Bastille (Lines 1, 5, 8) stations, and Lines 2 and 9 also serve the neighborhood. There are many stations throughout the 11th where one or more of these lines stop.
There are also numerous bus lines as well. I often take the 29 bus from either the Marais or the 1st arrondissement, as it passes many interesting places along the way; I sometimes hop off to check out a new boutique or get a coffee, and then hop back on.
To figure out the best route and closest stations, I like the free RATP app but Citymapper works too if you're more used to it.
Where to Stay in Oberkampf
If you want to experience an authentic, trendy, and non-touristy part of the city during your Paris visit, take a close look at these hotels, which include several of my own favorites.
Most of them are close to Place de la République, which means they're also just a few minutes' walk from the Haute Marais (3rd arrondissement) neighborhood.
Le General ★★★★
5 Rue Rampom
The wonderful 4-star Le General is located on a quiet street just a couple of blocks from Place de la Republique.
I stayed here with my older daughter last June, and we loved the location as well as everything about the hotel, which has a welcoming contemporary vibe - the 46 guestrooms sport a serene black and white theme with splashes of color, which we both loved. Our room had a balcony, which I highly recommend - perfect spot to enjoy Paris rooftop views. We never made our way to the onsite fitness room - too many things to do in the neighborhood!
We'd expected to take full advantage of the nearby République metro station but ended up walking everywhere as we explored all the small passages, arty boutiques, galleries, cafes, and nightlife in Oberkampf, visited the then-current fashion show at Fondation Alaia Azzedine and a few favorite gardens in the Marais, meandered around the Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood in the 10th arrondissement, and checked out all the fascinating tombs and memorials in Pere Lachaise Cemetery next door in the 20th arrondissement.
Some rooms interconnect, if you need a family room. Even the decor in the onsite Café les Deux Gares French bistro (which you should check out for its excellent yet affordable 3-course prix-fixe lunch menu, even if you don't stay in the hotel), comfortable front lobby, and fitness room mirrors the hotel's high-energy theme.
Rates at the hotel are also usually very affordable, as it is location a bit outside of the usual tourist districts.
The hotel's location is convenient, of course, if you're arriving or departing from one of the nearby train stations, but it also puts you close to all the foodie-favorite bistros and bars in the nearby Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood, Place de la République, and the quiet streets of the Upper Marais. Walk a bit to the west, and you'll be in the trendy SoPi (South of Pigalle) neighborhood.
For a special treat, stay here in December when the Alsatian Christmas Market featuring food products, fine wines and spirits, and crafts from Alsace in eastern France pops up in front of Gare de l'Est near the hotel.
Ginette a la Folie ★★★★
49 Rue de Malte, Paris 11
xxxxxxxvely Haussmannian building in a lively neighborhood filled with tantalizing Indian restaurants and small shops roughly between Paris's Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est train stations, the new 4-star Hotel Ginette a la Folie offers 40 air conditioned guest rooms decorated in fun vibrant colors by British designer Luke Edward Hall. Some rooms interconnect, if you need a family room. Even the decor in the onsite Café les Deux Gares French bistro (which you should check out for its excellent yet affordable 3-course prix-fixe lunch menu, even if you don't stay in the hotel), comfortable front lobby, and fitness room mirrors the hotel's high-energy theme.
Rates at the hotel are also usually very affordable, as it is location a bit outside of the usual tourist districts.
The hotel's location is convenient, of course, if you're arriving or departing from one of the nearby train stations, but it also puts you close to all the foodie-favorite bistros and bars in the nearby Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood, Place de la République, and the quiet streets of the Upper Marais. Walk a bit to the west, and you'll be in the trendy SoPi (South of Pigalle) neighborhood.
For a special treat, stay here in December when the Alsatian Christmas Market featuring food products, fine wines and spirits, and crafts from Alsace in eastern France pops up in front of Gare de l'Est near the hotel.
Crown Plaza Paris République ★★★★
10 Place de la République, Paris 11
xxxxxxxvely Haussmannian building in a lively neighborhood filled with tantalizing Indian restaurants and small shops roughly between Paris's Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est train stations, the new 4-star Crown Plaza Hotel République offers 40 air conditioned guest rooms decorated in fun vibrant colors by British designer Luke Edward Hall. Some rooms interconnect, if you need a family room.
Even the decor in the onsite Café les Deux Gares French bistro (which you should check out for its excellent yet affordable 3-course prix-fixe lunch menu, even if you don't stay in the hotel), comfortable front lobby, and fitness room mirrors the hotel's high-energy theme.
Rates at the hotel are also usually very affordable, as it is location a bit outside of the usual tourist districts.
The hotel's location is convenient, of course, if you're arriving or departing from one of the nearby train stations, but it also puts you close to all the foodie-favorite bistros and bars in the nearby Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood, Place de la République, and the quiet streets of the Upper Marais. Walk a bit to the west, and you'll be in the trendy SoPi (South of Pigalle) neighborhood.
For a special treat, stay here in December when the Alsatian Christmas Market featuring food products, fine wines and spirits, and crafts from Alsace in eastern France pops up in front of Gare de l'Est near the hotel.
Hotel la Nouvelle République (New Hotel République) ★★★★
25 Rue du Grand Prieuré, Paris 11
xxxxxxxvely Haussmannian building in a lively neighborhood filled with tantalizing Indian restaurants and small shops roughly between Paris's Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est train stations, the new 4-star Hotel la Nouvelle République offers 40 air conditioned guest rooms decorated in fun vibrant colors by British designer Luke Edward Hall. Some rooms interconnect, if you need a family room. Even the decor in the onsite Café les Deux Gares French bistro (which you should check out for its excellent yet affordable 3-course prix-fixe lunch menu, even if you don't stay in the hotel), comfortable front lobby, and fitness room mirrors the hotel's high-energy theme.
Hotel Les Deux Girafes ★★★★
10 Place de la République, Paris 11
xxxxxxxvely Haussmannian building in a lively neighborhood filled with tantalizing Indian restaurants and small shops roughly between Paris's Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est train stations, the new 4-star Hotel les Deux Gares offers 40 air conditioned guest rooms decorated in fun vibrant colors by British designer Luke Edward Hall. Some rooms interconnect, if you need a family room. Even the decor in the onsite Café les Deux Gares French bistro (which you should check out for its excellent yet affordable 3-course prix-fixe lunch menu, even if you don't stay in the hotel), comfortable front lobby, and fitness room mirrors the hotel's high-energy theme.
Rates at the hotel are also usually very affordable, as it is location a bit outside of the usual tourist districts.
The hotel's location is convenient, of course, if you're arriving or departing from one of the nearby train stations, but it also puts you close to all the foodie-favorite bistros and bars in the nearby Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood, Place de la République, and the quiet streets of the Upper Marais. Walk a bit to the west, and you'll be in the trendy SoPi (South of Pigalle) neighborhood.
For a special treat, stay here in December when the Alsatian Christmas Market featuring food products, fine wines and spirits, and crafts from Alsace in eastern France pops up in front of Gare de l'Est near the hotel.
Hotel Fabric ★★★★
10 Place de la République
xxxxxxxvely Haussmannian building in a lively neighborhood filled with tantalizing Indian restaurants and small shops roughly between Paris's Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est train stations, the new 4-star Hotel les Deux Gares offers 40 air conditioned guest rooms decorated in fun vibrant colors by British designer Luke Edward Hall. Some rooms interconnect, if you need a family room.
Even the decor in the onsite Café les Deux Gares French bistro (which you should check out for its excellent yet affordable 3-course prix-fixe lunch menu, even if you don't stay in the hotel), comfortable front lobby, and fitness room mirrors the hotel's high-energy theme.
Rates at the hotel are also usually very affordable, as it is location a bit outside of the usual tourist districts.
The hotel's location is convenient, of course, if you're arriving or departing from one of the nearby train stations, but it also puts you close to all the foodie-favorite bistros and bars in the nearby Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood, Place de la République, and the quiet streets of the Upper Marais. Walk a bit to the west, and you'll be in the trendy SoPi (South of Pigalle) neighborhood.
For a special treat, stay here in December when the Alsatian Christmas Market featuring food products, fine wines and spirits, and crafts from Alsace in eastern France pops up in front of Gare de l'Est near the hotel.
Citadines République Apart'hotel ★★★★
10 Place de la République, Paris 11
xxxxxxxvely Haussmannian building in a lively neighborhood filled with tantalizing Indian restaurants and small shops roughly between Paris's Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est train stations, the new 4-star Hotel les Deux Gares offers 40 air conditioned guest rooms decorated in fun vibrant colors by British designer Luke Edward Hall. Some rooms interconnect, if you need a family room. Even the decor in the onsite Café les Deux Gares French bistro (which you should check out for its excellent yet affordable 3-course prix-fixe lunch menu, even if you don't stay in the hotel), comfortable front lobby, and fitness room mirrors the hotel's high-energy theme.
Rates at the hotel are also usually very affordable, as it is location a bit outside of the usual tourist districts.
The hotel's location is convenient, of course, if you're arriving or departing from one of the nearby train stations, but it also puts you close to all the foodie-favorite bistros and bars in the nearby Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood, Place de la République, and the quiet streets of the Upper Marais. Walk a bit to the west, and you'll be in the trendy SoPi (South of Pigalle) neighborhood.
For a special treat, stay here in December when the Alsatian Christmas Market featuring food products, fine wines and spirits, and crafts from Alsace in eastern France pops up in front of Gare de l'Est near the hotel.
Le Clark Hotel ★★★★
10 Place de la République, Paris 11
xxxxxxxvely Haussmannian building in a lively neighborhood filled with tantalizing Indian restaurants and small shops roughly between Paris's Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est train stations, the new 4-star Hotel les Deux Gares offers 40 air conditioned guest rooms decorated in fun vibrant colors by British designer Luke Edward Hall. Some rooms interconnect, if you need a family room. Even the decor in the onsite Café les Deux Gares French bistro (which you should check out for its excellent yet affordable 3-course prix-fixe lunch menu, even if you don't stay in the hotel), comfortable front lobby, and fitness room mirrors the hotel's high-energy theme.
Rates at the hotel are also usually very affordable, as it is location a bit outside of the usual tourist districts.
The hotel's location is convenient, of course, if you're arriving or departing from one of the nearby train stations, but it also puts you close to all the foodie-favorite bistros and bars in the nearby Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood, Place de la République, and the quiet streets of the Upper Marais. Walk a bit to the west, and you'll be in the trendy SoPi (South of Pigalle) neighborhood.
For a special treat, stay here in December when the Alsatian Christmas Market featuring food products, fine wines and spirits, and crafts from Alsace in eastern France pops up in front of Gare de l'Est near the hotel.
More Places to Stay in the 11th Arrondissement
- Hotel de Varenne (44 Rue de Bourgogne) - Charming 4-star boutique hotel with a secluded garden close to Musée d'Orsay, the Rodin Museum, and the Eiffel Tower
- Hôtel de Lille (40 Rue de Lille) - Lovely 4-star boutique hotel surrounded by wonderful restaurants in a fantastic 7th arrondissement location near the Orsay, the Louvre, and the Seine River
- Hotel du Cadran - 4-star hotel with 53 guestrooms just off of Rue Cler and about a 7-minute walk to the Eiffel Tower; rooms are small but nicely furnished with contemporary decor
- Hotel Muguet - Lovely family-run 3-star hotel with air conditioning, a lift, and 40 stylish rooms including some with Eiffel Tower views
- Hotel Eiffel Turenne - 3-star value hotel close to Rue Cler with air conditioning, a small elevator, and 34 attractive rooms; a couple have views of the top of the Eiffel Tower
- Hotel Montalembert (3 Rue de Montalembert) - Excellent 5-star boutique hotel in Saint Germain de Prés near museums, the Bon Marché luxury shopping complex, and numerous small boutiques and antique shops
- Le Narcisse Blanc (19 Boulevard de la Tour-Maubourg) - This highly-rated 5-star hotel and spa features 37 elegant guestrooms, a swimming pool and jacuzzi, health club with gym, and superb service
What to Do & See in Oberkampf
You won't find any of Paris's top attractions in Oberkampf, but if you want to experience an authentic neighborhood and some of the city's best nightlife centered around music, wine bars, and food, this could become one of your favorite spots in the city. That is certainly true for me.
Entertainment
Atelier des Lumieres (38 Rue Saint Maur) is an immersive digital arts venue that opened almost a decade ago in a former steel foundry from the early 1800s. It hosts 2-3 different shows each year that feature videos (often of famous art and artists), movement, and sound in a truly unique, artistic, and immersive way. It's a very cool place (both metaphorically and literally - great a/c on the muggiest summer days), has a wonderful book/gift store, and is equally fun if you come solo, with friends, or with family.
Shows last about an hour, and usually include one longer video with one or two shorter ones. You can stay as long as you want if you want to see the shows a second or third time. It's best to get your tickets online in advance because you'll save a couple of euros (they discourage ticket lines at the door in order to not crowd the sidewalk) plus some timeslots usually sell out a few days ahead.
Cirque d'Hiver (110 rue Amelot) dates back to 1852 when the newly crowned Emperor of France, Napoleon III, celebrated its opening as "Cirque Napoleon." Since then, it's hosted various circus shows, trapeze artists, acrobats, and occasional musicals and concerts. Check what's on.
Music
Oberkampf's most famous music venue is the pagoda-inspired Bataclan (50 Boulevard Voltaire), a former theater with a unique design built in 1864 and named after an Offenbach operetta.
Edith Piaf and Maurice Chevalier were among those who performed there in the early days.
Since the early 70s, the Bataclan has been a storied venue, almost with cult status, for rock and often features emerging musicians and trends as well as the more famous names such as Genesis, Phish, 30 Seconds to Mars, Arsenik, Lou Reed and the Velvet Underground, and Jeff Buckley.
Today, the Bataclan's lineup includes both French and international musicians, including some you'll be familiar with (if you like rock) along with others you've never heard of unless you're French (and like rock).
The Bataclan was one of the major targets of the horrific 2015 terrorist attack, accounting for 92 of the 132 deaths, and was closed for a year, with Sting headlining the reopening concert in a tribute to the victims. (Not to digress, but Paris marked the 10-year anniversary of that night with an opening ceremony for the new Jardin du 13 Novembre 13, 2015 next to the Saint Gervais church in the 4th arrondissement; if you're in that area, stop by to honor the memory of those who died that night.)
Rue de Lappe, a short atmospheric street off of Rue de la Roquette near Bastille, is the long-time center of accordian musette music, which evolved from a type of bagpipe music brought to this area in the 19th century by immigrants from the mountainous Auvergne region in central France.
By the early 20th century, working-class dance halls lined the street and attracted performers such as gypsy-jazz guitarist Django Reinhardt and cabaret singer Edith Piaf. Le Balajo (9 Rue de Lappe), is the one surviving club from that period and known for its salsa nights and themed (disco, hip hop, urban, Afrobeats, rock 'n roll, etc) nights - well worth a visit. But you'll find other fun places along this street as well. It's usually at its busiest from Thursday - Sunday. If you go, don't expect much to be happening until around 11pm.
Charming Strolls
In addition to Cour Damoye which I mentioned earlier, some of my other favorite spots are Passage du Cheval Blanc (also not far from Place de la Bastille), where you can explore leafy courtyards named after months and lined with 19th century workshops, Cité Parchappe, Passage du Chantier, Cour des Shaddoks, Cour du Bel Air, Cour de l'Etoile d'Hor, Passage Lhomme, Passage Alexandrine, and off of Rue Oberkampf, Cité du Figuier, Villa Gaudelet, and Cité Griset.
Each one is different, and you'll most likely love a few and wonder why I even mentioned some of the others.
But bottom line: you'll discover a part of Paris that most visitors miss entirely.
Green Spaces
In addition to Cour Damoye which I mentioned earlier, some of my other favorite spots are Passage du Cheval Blanc (also not far from Place de la Bastille), where you can explore leafy courtyards named after months and lined with 19th century workshops, Cité Parchappe, Passage du Chantier, Cour des Shaddoks, Cour du Bel Air, Cour de l'Etoile d'Hor, Passage Lhomme, Passage Alexandrine, and off of Rue Oberkampf, Cité du Figuier, Villa Gaudelet, and Cité Griset.
Street Art
I'm a huge fan of the street art, and love exploring the latest creations in Paris. Oberkampf and the 13th arrondissements are my two favorite spots in the city to see it.
For the best experience, partly because you'll learn a lot about the neighborhood and see places you might easily overlook on your own, I normally recommend joining a guided tour - but although I've taken a couple in the past that included Oberkampf, none seem to at the moment.
However, you can see a lot by wandering around on your own. The biggest concentration of street art in Oberkampf can be spotted in the Rue Oberkampf/Rue Saint Maur area.
Where to Shop in Operkampf
For independent boutiques, check out Rue Saint-Maur, Rue Keller, and the streets around and connecting into Rue Oberkampf. Rue Amelot, near Place de la Republique (and just a few steps away from the Upper Marais is also becoming increasing interesting, although much of it is still evolving.
Some of the passages and cours are also a goldmine of indie creativity. A lot of them change frequently, so you never know what you'll find from one time to the next.
Here are several places where I've found wonderful things:
Slow Galerie (5 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud; they've also recently opened a second location at 60 Rue Monsieur le Prince in Saint Germain) - Limited edition prints in a variety of sizes by emerging and established mostly French artists. Styles vary, but at the risk of over-simplifying, what the works generally have in common is a certain je ne sais pas charm. Prices are affordable and fair, and you can buy the prints framed or unframed. There's a huge selection to sort through, but I've found pieces I've totally loved here.
Landline (107 Avenue Parmentier) - A plastic-free boutique packed with home goods, kitchen ware, simple children's toys made of wood (and no toxic finishes), simple home entertainment such as puzzles, all beautifully displayed. I've seen it referred to as "Paris's best concept store," and I agree. It's unique, and unlike other stores in this same genre, it's also not outrageously over-priced.
Opulence Vintage Oberkampf (11 Rue Oberkampf) - Designer clothing and bags; not cheap but a great selection.
Listen! Vinyl Record Store (43 Rue de la Folie Mericourt) - Originals and reissues across various music genres. If you're into vinyl, expect to spend a long time here.
Where to Eat, Drink, and Get Caffeinated + Oberkampf Nightlife
Brasserie Martin (near Atelier)
Chez Gaston -
Au Passage
Land & Monkeys (86 Blvd Beaumarchais) - Vegan breads, pastries, light meals, coffee
Pepite Boulangerie (195 Boul' Voltaire) - Gourmet bakery and pastry shop, with delicious homemade treats; usually some gluten-free options.
Le Villaret
Chambelland (14 Rue Ternaux) - Gluten-free breads and pastries
ne of the gastronomy pioneers.
L'Arbre à Café (61 Rue Oberkampf) - Grand cru biodynamically-farmed single estate coffees; if you like coffee, you owe it to yourself to order a cup here
Le Verre Volé (38 Rue Oberkampf) - Natural wine shop
Cafe Charbon (109 Rue Oberkampf) - Charming traditional cafe dating from 1863 with a zinc bar, mosaic tile floors, and wall paintings. Its exterior side wall, dubbed "Le M.U.R.," is a favorite (sanctioned) site of street artists, with a new mural going up ever few weeks - claim a terrace (sidewalk) table to watch the action. The cafe itself is quite trendy, quite popular, and one of my own favorites because of its mix of French and Viet dishes. My favorites include their salads, omelets, bo buns, and their various Viet chicken specialities - always check out the daily specials here.
Au Chat Noir
Cafe du Coin
La Petite Aubaine (76 Avenue de la République) - Meat-centric menu featuring traditional French food from the Aveyron region - the charcuterie board for sharing features artisanal meats from the Aveyronnaise region is particularly good, and you can also get a smaller but still generous version of it as a first course. I also love the burgers here.
Augourd'hui Demain (vegan - Rue du Chemin Vert)
Rue de Charonne - French brand chain stores (Isabel Marant, Cyrillus Charonne, ba&sh), Septime, Clamato, Boulangerie Jo, Restaurant Confluence, Chcolatier de Paris, On Partage - Cantine Cafeinee, Chez Sophie, Bomaya, Le Cafe du Passage (wine bar), Mori Cafe (vegan), Louloute (jazz bar),
Brasserie Rosie (45 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine) - This modern brasserie near Place de la Bastille is part of a restaurant group with other locations in the 2nd and 16th arrondissements; it's a little more polished than other spots in Oberkampf - good place to come for traditional French starters such as onion soup and escargots.
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